Horse Care For Beginners

The blanket and saddle comfortably fitted, so now the girth can be suitably tightened.

Fitting the girth.

As a rider, the last thing you want when out for a pleasant trail ride is having your horse’s saddle slide around your horse’s body, particularly when you mount or dismount. If the girth is not fitted correctly and is too loose, this can easily happen.  So just how tight should you make the girth when you’re tacking up for your ride?

Should you reef really hard on the girth to tighten the saddle down to the last notch so the saddle doesn’t slip? The answer to this is NO! Horses girthed too tightly will get cinchy and develop a dislike to beng saddled which is a problem you’ll find hard to cure. Instead, right from the start, do things correctly, like correctly positioning the saddle. If  you make the girth too tight, chances are that your horse will either reach around and bite you, blow or go down on its knees.  So, a good snug girth is what you should try to achieve,  and just about right in your horse’s book anyhow!

Position the saddle correctly and you shouldn’t have girth problems.

The saddle should rest solidly and be level on your horse’s back. But, having said that, there are many variations to horses’ backs, withers and rump. And also in the saddles themselves, and this sometimes becomes somewhat of a challenge. But assuming you can level the saddle on your horse’s back ~ it should be on you, the rider’s, centre of balance. This just behind your horse’s natural balance point at standstill. As your horse moves, engaging his hindquarters, his natural balance point (just behind and slightly above his elbow) moves back and under you as your horse rounds his back upwards. Now your horse and you should be in balance.

Now for the saddle, blanket and girth.

Next put your saddle pad or blanket over the withers and well forward. Place the saddle over the withers and forward. Slide the saddle and pad backward until they naturally settle into position, behind the withers and level on the back. You might think that the saddle position looks to be too far back. But it’s not. The gullet of the saddle will be somewhat over the withers. The saddle will be level and the back of the saddle won’t be pressing into your horse’s loin area. The girth will not be immediately behind the elbow, but several inches behind the elbow instead. If you were taught otherwise, forget it!  This is correct.

Here’s why it’s correct.

If the saddle is too far forward well over the withers, and the girth is directly behind the elbow, the movement of your horse’s shoulders is restricted. His stride and lateral action is adversely affected. Properly positioned, the saddle will not need to be tightly cinched, because it will stay in position naturally with only a snug cinching.

When the saddle is on board.

Check the pad or saddle blanket and lift it up into the gullet so that at least two fingers slide easily between the withers and the saddle. If you’ve properly positioned the saddle you won’t give your horse grief or discomfort on his withers or loins.  Then stand back and carefully observe your tacked horse from your ground level.  If there are any problems you’ll easily be able to spot them.

All being well you can now go out and enjoy your trail ride that you were so looking forward to!

Recommended reading:   Horses For Dummies  by Audrey Pavia

 

But very quickly my local Saddle Club made me aware of the many problems that could happen with a horse without the proper care, and that I’d need to find a vet for help if ever the need arose.  So I did some research and learned of the many health problems that could occur without the proper care.

A few of the things I learned I’ve listed below.

Warning signs of potential health problems.

The symptom of the majority of  horse ailments appears to be inflammation.  The signs to look out for are heat, pain and swelling in any part of your horse. A sudden change in your horse’s normal behaviour should also set your alarm bells ringing.   Rather than trying to learn the symptoms of each type of illness, try to be more aware of the fact that your horse is showing indications of good health and the joy of life.

When to find a vet and ask for help.

As already indicated, if you see real signs if pain, swelling or inflammation, don’t depend on your own judgement, call a vet. I’ve been taught that Rule No:1 is to never to leave a horse in even slight pain for more than 24 hours without having the cause identified and having it dealt with.

Realise that calling in a vet is not an admission of failure on your part.  Unfortunate things just do happen, often for no apparent reason. Your vet is part of your team and hopefully,  apart from treating your horse, will teach you some first-aid treatments for you to use while you’re waiting for him or her to arrive.

Finally, realise that vets can be expensive, but alway base your decision on when to call a vet on need rather the what it may cost.

So just how to you find a vet?

Number One:  The primary thing is to ensure that you choose a vet who had extensive experience with horses. Check them out as best you can by talking to other horse owners and by asking direct questions of the vet. You’ll find that many vets don’t, or won’t treat large animals like horses and cattle.  Some have experience only with small animals and specialise only in treating pets like dogs and cats. Horses are big and strong and you need to be confident that the vet you choose is going to be easily able to handle your horse. The last thing you want is for either the vet or your horse to get injured.

Number Two:  You also want to be sure that the vet you choose has overall experience. Your vet should know a lot about the general life and the care of horses along with similar knowledge about other animals.  In other words, he should have a good general knowledge about animals right across the board. You want to choose a vet who is good at what he does, and who really knows what he’s doing.

Number Three:  Finally, you want to choose a vet with whom you can feel comfortable and at ease  This is very important as over the years to come, whether you like it or not, you’re going to be seeing a lot of him and her. If the vet becomes a personal friend, this can only be to your advantage. I was very fortunate as I had an excellent lady vet as one of my immediate neighbours who helped  me extremely quickly on many occasions with my horse, as well as my four dogs, cat, and cattle. And who knows, if your country is similar to here in Australia, you may even be offered “mate’s rates” which can save you quite a bit of money!

Recommended reading:  Complete Horse Care Manual by Colin Vogel
 

Horse riding can be a dangerous activity.

Unlike their predecessors riding helmets of today serve a purpose beyond making people look good: they are worn for the primary purpose of safety. Although many people don’t stop to think about it, competitive horse riding is a sport that can be fraught with danger. This is the reason why helmets of today are designed and standardised to make sure that a rider does not suffer serious cranial injuries when riding.

 
“Riding or equestrian helmets have sport-specific differences from those used in other sports. For this reason, a helmet designed for another sport, such as bicycle riding helmets, are not deemed suitable for horse riding. The riding helmet covers more of a person’s head than does a bicycle riding helmet, fitting lower on the head, particularly at the back of the skull, and has protection distributed evenly around the head rather than being concentrated in the front and back. Aside from the safety features, aerodynamics are less important in a horse riding helmet than in a bicycle helmet. The appearance of horse riding helmets is frequently based on that of an English hunt cap. Additionally good ventilation and comfort are considered important features of a horse riding helmet”.*

 “Certified helmets are required headgear for a number of competitive riding events, particularly where horse and rider must work or jump at high speed. Helmets are worn more often by English-style riders and are gaining acceptance as required headgear for children. They are most widely accepted in activities such as eventing, show jumping, or horse racing. They are required in eventing, in endurance riding and other types of competitions. Riders who take their horses hacking or trail riding sometimes wear helmets, though there are tremendous variations in helmet use in different regions and countries. However, for general safety reasons horse riders helmets are recommended at all times when one is near or on a horse”.*

 The helmet itself has an outer layer of plastic, which resists impact and prevents injuries in case of a fall. However, some riding helmets are designed with a cloth covering the shiny plastic in order to make the helmet look more attractive. The brim of the helmet is designed to protect the eyes of the rider from the harsh glare of the sun. It also makes the helmet more attractive in terms of design. However, the brim is not made of the same materials as the ’shell’ of the helmet. Rather, it is designed to crumple during a fall. This makes the helmet safer in the event that a rider lands on the brim.

 The inside of the riding helmet is designed with both comfort and safety in mind. Added padding makes sure that the helmet takes the brunt of the impact in case of a fall. The design is also very sport-specific being one of the reasons why an equestrian helmet is easily recognisable.

 There are many variations on the equestrian helmet based on the competition. Horse racing jockeys, for instance, mostly wear helmets that are brimless and covered with a cloth matching the color scheme of their uniforms. Traditionalists in everyday riding are inclined to frown upon the spreading use of brilliant colored helmets, but more and more people find the colors black, brown and grey boring.

 There are also some varieties of equestrian helmets today that have been adapted to more “western” designs. These helmets, however, are yet to be embraced by riders in rodeos (where they are obviously more needed).

 Standardisation varies from country to country. However, a rider who joins a competition must have a standard riding helmet or that rider will not be allowed to compete. People who are qualified with the competition requirements and who have performed a “conformity assessment” judge whether the helmet being worn is up to standard.

 The conformity assessment is a series of tests that show how safe the helmet is. Some assessments involve various tests that simulate a rider falling from a horse and even getting kicked by a horse in the head.

Today, the equestrian helmet is not yet required for riders. However, their use is becoming common practice. In fact, riding instructors today are required by insurance companies to make their students wear riding helmets in order to get an insurance policy. Even although some people may feel that equestrian helmets are uncomfortable and hot, you should always remember that the real purpose of wearing a helmet is to help keep you safe.

* Modified from Wikipedia

Easy Horse Care:  Part 7

Plan your horse first aid kit now!

While horse supplies run the gamut from grooming products to nutritional supplements there is an essential horse supply item that you shouldn’t be without while either exercising or riding your horse. You’ve probably guessed ~it’s  a horse first aid kit. Horse first aid kits are essential for all horse owners as they may be just the thing that could save a horse’s life.

Hollywood has often dramatised the situation where the rider shoots his horse because it is injured. Probably he hasn’t even thought about horse first aid kits and doesn’t have one with him. It’s pointless putting a horse down over a minor injury if it could be put out of its agony without pulling the trigger. And you’ll know from experience that no matter how well thought out or planned your riding outing might be, there are just some things that will simply go wrong. Accidents will happen! Always carrying horse first aid kits just makes sense, it’s not being paranoid, it is being prepared. Your preparation might help prevent your ride from turning into a Hollywood drama!

Ensure adequate storage for your horse first aid kit.

Your horse first aid kit should be stored in a container or bag that protects the kit from moisture and dirt as these will encourage the growth of bacteria. You’d just aggravate your horse’s infection if you used, for example, contaminated bandages. You’ll find that stores selling horse supplies will carry items such as a plastic zipper bag which would be a suitable container. Aside from carrying such items as tools, or grooming equipment, these are also good for storing and carrying your first aid items. Aside from keeping possible contaminants out, you could also choose a container that may well fit in your saddlebag.

Among the items that you should include in your horse first aid kit is a disinfectant as this is probably the most handy for most injuries to your horse. From minor scrapes and abrasions to wounds, disinfectants are essential cleansers. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions especially when using industrial grades as excessive use could dry your horse’s skin.

Prevention from bacteria.

Antiseptic scrubs and swabs become useful for disinfecting wounds in the absence of water. These are excellent substitutes for disinfectants as they clean wounds with the same efficiency, but without the need for water. Ointments or wound powders are also worthy additions to your horse first aid kit. These can prevent the entrance of new bacteria into the wound and speed up the healing process. However, be sure to use ointments, powders, and creams that have been approved by your vet.

A fly repellent applied or sprayed on the wound considerably lowers further infection or contamination risks. Wound dressings which come in sterile individual packs are good for covering wounds and promoting healing. Importantly, you should have a supply of bandages in your horse first aid kit, or at least two with a wide breadth. They are good for stabilising fractures, splints, and for securing pads over bleeding wounds. Speaking of bleeding, cotton wool and gauze are essential for preventing excess bleeding. And salts are good for soaking diseased hooves and feet

Further important items for your horse first aid kit.

Aside from these medications, there are some supplies which you can buy from equine stores and regular drug stores. Petroleum jellies are good for chafing, minor burns, and skin sores. A thermometer is a wise investment and should be added to your horse first aid kit.

Scissors, tweezers, and forceps are tools you shouldn’t forget adding to your horse first aid kit. Aside from being useful for cutting bandages, they are also perfect for removing splinters and stones that may be stuck in your horse’s hooves.

Lastly,  please remember that horse first aid kits are just for providing a horse help in emergencies before a vet arrives. These are just for preventive measures, meaning they can’t cure your horse. It is still important to always call a vet for assistance and treatment after applying any first aid.

Easy Horse Care:  Part 6

Selecting a saddle.

Ensuring that you select the right horse riding saddle for your horse is vital. It not only affects the position in which you sit on your horse, and therefore can be beneficial in preventing back ache or muscle paid, but it also affects the horse. No responsible horse owner would want him to be in discomfort and pain and so choosing the best saddle is very important.

You can look for expert advice from a responsible horse tack shop or saddler who will measure your horse and recommend the saddles that they think are most appropriate, but as with most things worthwhile, this service costs money. However, I highly recommend this service as it ensures that you will not be causing any distress to your horse when you ride him.  Should you be dealing with a tack shop out of your locality, they should be able to tell you how to get the right measurements so that they can then advise you on an appropriate saddle.

Positioning the saddle.

Once you’ve purchased the correct saddle it’s important to remember that positioning  the saddle on your horse’s back is also vital in ensuring your horse is comfortable when ridden. There are three main muscles in the horse’s back which can be affected by the use of a badly positioned saddle. It’s also important to familiarise yourself with these and their locations before attempting to position the saddle on your horse. This will give you an idea of where the saddle needs to sit in order to be most comfortable for your horse. You can look for advice on these muscle positions from a vet used to working with horses.

In addition to the muscles which can be affected by the saddle, you must remember that the saddle is positioned on your horse’s back and so that this can have an effect on his spine and his vertebrae.  Remembering this should remind you of how important this lesson is and that you cannot afford to take risks with your horse if you want him to lead a long, painless and comfortable life.

Fitting the saddle.

To fit the saddle, firstly place the saddle on your horse’s back, forward of the wither. Once you’ve done this, slide it back along the back of your horse until it cannot comfortably go any further. This will vary dependent on the shape of the individual horse but the lowest point of the saddle should correspond to the lowest point of the horse’s back. If the saddle is in the correct position, the saddle tree will not be pressing on the scapula (the shoulder of the horse) but will rest in the natural grooves behind them. The most common mistake is to position the saddle too far forward and this then can cause the saddle to press on the muscles in the scapula causing pain, impeding movement and creating the possibility of saddle sores.

Once you’ve learned how to position the saddle you will find it comes naturally after a time and both he and you find it really takes very little effort. But it’s worth taking the time to learn to do it properly if you wish to remain the owner of a healthy, happy horse.

Easy Horse Care:  Part 5

  These horse grooming tips will assist you in keeping your horse in top condition.

Grooming is a significant factor in taking care of your horse and something that will add materially to his well-being. Should your horse be stabled you can anticipate devoting around 30 minutes or more every time you clean and groom him when he’s in work.

If your horse is stabled and is fed significant amounts of manufactured feed, regular grooming is absolutely essential. It’s also necessary should your horse receive a full ration of artificial feed, but is put out each day in a protective rug.

Should your horse be located out in the paddock, day and night, all year round, grooming should only be confined to the elimination of superficial mud and dirt. In this instance vigorous grooming may remove the protecting waterproofing grease generated in the coat. Full grooming should be carried out just on a periodic basis.

Why grooming is important.

 Your horse’s body is going to generate large amounts of waste material after the eating of concentrate foodstuff. A great deal of this is disposed through the higher respiration level involved any time your horse is exercised and also through the normal process of excretion. However a substantial quantity is dispersed through the pores of the skin. It’s for this reason that it’s very important that you should keep your horse’s skin thoroughly clean through frequent and thorough cleaning if the pores and skin are to perform their proper function.

 Additionally, this grooming encourages blood circulation and muscle tone along with contributing to a feeling of well-being in your horse and developing a relaxed relationship between your horse and yourself.

 You’ll discover that grooming, rather than an over-all rub-over before saddling up, is best performed right after exercising when you horse will be warm and his skin pores are open. As well as cleansing your horse and stimulating his pores and skin and circulation, this kind of grooming session offers a very good opportunity to carry out a thorough inspection of your horse. You need to look thoroughly for scratches that may need attention and to also ensure that his eyes are thoroughly clean, and not runny.

 Now for picking out the feet.

 This is vital to the well-being of your horse and should be carried out prior to cleaning the body. Should you find it necessary to wash his feet, it’s important to make sure that the heels are nicely dried. If the heels are left wet, they can very easily become chapped and sore leaving them liable to contract some sort of infection.

 To pick out the front feet, run your hand firmly down the rear of your horse’s leg along the tendon to the fetlock. Then lift up the foot and standing close to the horse, pass your hand round the hoof and make use of the hoof-pick in the right hand to clean it. It’s a good idea to capture any dirt picked out for disposal.

 For the hind feet, once again stand close. Then work your hand from the inside down the back of the leg and pull forward from the fetlock. Holding the foot in your left hand, with your hight hand clean out from the rear to the front with the hoof-pick.

 Although working around your horse’s feet like this might appear a little daunting, you’ll soon find that after just a few times it becomes an easy and familiar task.

 Your grooming kit.

 Ideally, your grooming kit should consist of these items:

 Dandy brush: a brush with stiff bristles to remove mud and dirt.

Body brush: a soft brush with short bristles to brush out dust and scurf in tender places like the face.

Curry comb: metal, plastic rubber primarily used for cleaning the body brush.

Water brush: a brush with fine bristles used dampened for the tail and mane.

Sweat scraper: to remove excess sweat or water from the coat.

Mane comb: a wide-toothed steel comb for the tail and mane.

Hoof pick: for cleaning out the hooves.

 For convenience and safe keeping it is suggested that all these items be keep in an appropriate bag or other container.

Easy Horse Care:  Part 3

All horse lovers know that one of the greatest things about owning your own horse is getting to ride him. You wake in the morning, the sun’s shining, so you decide on a before breakfast ride. But there are occasions when you wake feeling really down and out. So what better way to lift your spirits than to saddle him up and go for a good, brisk ride out in the fresh and revitalising air!

You know that your horse is well-trained and fit as you’ve spent many, many pleasurable hours working with him and you know he understands what you want of him and how it feels to have you ride him. The bonding you’ve done with your horse is a great foundation to making your rides smooth and enjoyable. And you know that, for the most part, your horse really enjoys the freedom of getting out and being ridden.

However, when you’re going to ride your horse there are a number of things you’re going to need to do to make sure that he stays safe and healthy so that you can continue to ride him for a long time to come. Things that can also protect you, the rider.

Here are just three of many points to observe to ensure safe riding:

1. Be sure you never ask too much of your horse. You have to be confident that he is always comfortable in doing what you ask him to do. And you have ensure you’re comfortable with what he does and how he behaves. This point is vital, as if you’re not comfortable you’re going to find that both you and your horse might be forced to take unnessary chances.
2. How about your tack? Is it in good condition? When you’re riding your horse you’ll need to be confident that you are using only those things which are sanctioned for use with horses. Be sure you know that all your equipment is strong and isn’t going to break or fall apart. Make sure you’re able to fit his saddle and other necessary tack so that you’re sure they are done correctly and will not cause your horse any discomfort. After he’s fully tacked up, it’s a great idea to do a double-check.
3. A last thing that you need to do when you’re riding your horse to make sure that he stays safe is to always be careful where you are riding, and to carefully watch the terrain to make sure that you’re not doing anything that might be dangerous for both yourself and your horse. You must  ensure you aren’t leading your horse into riding conditions that could cause him harm.

Finally, keep in mind that horse riding is one of the most dangerous sports in which you can participate. Fine, enjoy that ride, but at all times be fully alert and conscious of any danger signs that may emanate from your horse’s demeanour and body actions.

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Easy Horse Care:  Part 2

Now that you’ve got your very own horse, it’s time for you to get to know him. And to learn how to teach him to get to know you.

Horses really are beautiful and sensitive creatures. Be aware, however, that horses observe the herd system. Their instinct in the wild is for immediate action, as action for them can mean their survival. Any sign of danger, they take flight.

Bearing this in mind you must now learn how to effectively communicate with your horse. Know that horses have a language of their own and that, unfortunately, many owners are not as aware of this as they should be.

Your horse’s BODY LANGUAGE means something.

Every swivel of an ear, each hip movement, tail flick and facial expression means something. This is the language horses use to speak to other horses – and to us – so if we are to get to know our horse, we must listen.

Your horse will love you if, first and foremost, you treat him fairly,  and secondly, if you allow yourself to develop a relationship with him in the same way you would a human partner. There are too many owners who will look after their horse’s material needs but put nothing back into developing the partnership itself. A horse born in captivity will identify with an alternative provider and companion, resulting in a healthy relationship from the beginning. Such a relationship with your horse requires, amongst other things, trust coupled with respect, fondness with compliance, and a desire to please.

YOUR body language is equally as important.

You need to know what your body language says to your horse before you can really understand him. Flapping your arms while trying to get his halter on will cause concern. Running up to him in a pasture rather than walking up to him calmly can make him think – is this a predator chasing me? We’ve all heard about ‘bombproof horses’. Sorry to say, this is just fiction! Something, some time, will spook your horse … any horse. So keep your body language quiet, slow, easy and calm. If you are calm, this will also help to keep your horse  calm.

Horses speak to us with all body parts and that includes both their front and back ends. So beware, both ends can cause us untold grief if we do not pay attention to what our horse is saying to us. For instance, most of us know that when a horse has both ears pinned back flat something is really wrong. Chances are that your horse is either frightened or angry. You’ll find that in most cases it is anger. So watch your horse’s front and rear very carefully. Caution is best even if you think your horse may be listening to something behind him or that he’s just bored. Once you really get to know your horse well, you will know what his ears are saying.

If your horse has his ears perked up and forward this means that he’s focusing his attention on something and is either up to some mischief or he’s on high alert about something he is seeing, hearing or smelling. So remind your horse you need his attention, especially if you are out riding and his ears whip forward.

Horse communication through grooming.

Brushing and caring for your horse is a major bonding experience between humans and horses. Don’t ever under-estimate how powerfully you’re communicating with your horse about you when you brush him.

At all times, keep your horse clean. Be sure his entire coat is free from dirt, mud, sand and sweat. If you can, brush your horse every day. Pick out his feet before and after every outing. Wash out any sweat residue from the saddle pad and girth after each work-out or ride. Apart from communication, a clean horse and tack is a major step towards keeping a healthy horse.

Finally, don’t overlook the value of verbal communication. Talking to your horse in a quiet, calm fashion is a major step in having him get to know you and to respect and respond to your instructions.

You can probably feel it in your blood. Why? Because the warmer weather is coming. Spring is in the air. As you wander around out of doors you notice that, at last, the grass is starting to grow and the paddocks are recovering their lush, green look. At this time you can vividly imagine yourself meandering down a country lane or cantering across the green paddocks on your very first own horse.

All this feels so good to you, but you haven’t yet got your own horse! So you decide that now is the time to take positive action.

So just what do you need to know?

Here are 6 important and practical tips to help you find just the right horse.

1.   Where should you look for your perfect horse?

One of your best starting places are the contacts you have with people who already own a horse. Look for notice boards that you’ll find in your local horse supply outlets, saddle and pony clubs, and riding schools.
Then look for those horses that are advertised in both local and national magazines. One of these, if you’re in its coverage area, is Horse and Hound.
Bear in mind that for advertised horses you’ll need to be quick off the mark. You may well find that the best horses may be quickly sold in just the first few days. You’ll also need to be prepared to travel as many available horses could be quite some distance from your home. Be prepared for some disappointment along the way and realise that it may take some considerable time to find just the right horse for you.
2.   What questions should you ask yourself before you go looking for your horse?

Before you even go to look at your first horse give honest answers to these three questions:

*       What is my budget?
*       What do I want to do with my horse?
          Do I want hunt and jump, dressage, or simply trail ride?
*       What is the level of my riding ability?

Make sure you’re totally honest and keep the answers to these questions firmly in mind. It’s easy to go astray by falling in love with a totally unsuitable horse. In such a case you may find that you end up with a horse you cannot control or if, for example, you want to jump, a horse that has a total aversion to jumping. Keep a clear head and let it rule your heart! And remember, keeping a horse can be an expensive business – there is no point in overstretching yourself in buying a horse as you’re going to need to buy saddle, and other expensive tack.
3.   When you go to inspect a prospective horse, what should you look for?

Be sure you see the horse in every day situations. Don’t just rely on the seller’s statements, ask to see for yourself. Watch him be saddled up. Does he stand quietly or does he move and fidget around? A horse may behave well when being ridden, but be inclined to kick and bite when being fitted up with his tack, or having a rug put on or off.  

Examine the horse carefully for signs of sweatmarks. He may well have been lunged or given a vigorous ride before you turn up making him appear much quieter than he really is. Also realise that a horse that is used to being exercised more than you have time for may mean that you have a much more excitable horse on your hands than you can handle.

4.   You’ve never bought a horse before, so what should you do when you try him out?

If you’ve only ridden at riding school or saddle/pony club before, without having your instructor standing in the middle telling you what to do, you may find yourself at a loss. So, before you go to your horse inspection it’s advisable to decide on a short routine you’ll use to test the horse you’re assessing to decide whether this is the right horse for you or not. It’s also a good idea to take an experienced horse riding friend along with you for the inspection. Your friend can also help you with the following sample routines:

Sample routines:
Walk the horse, halting once or twice to make sure the horse is listening to you.
Walk a 20 metre circle, watching to see if he leans in or out. Change rein and repeat this walk in the reverse direction.
If he bends easier on one rein than the other, this is not a fault as most horses tend to have a stronger rein. More important, is he is attentive to you?

Then trot the horse. Does he go forward eagerly, or is he reluctant?
As in the walking exercise, work a circle on both reins. Does he drop out of a trot as he bends?
Does he try to go forward into a canter?
Whatever the result, you will have to decide if you’d be happy with the horse’s behaviour. 
Once again, your experienced friend may help you decide.

If you’re happy with the trot, try the canter on each rein. The horse should make the upward transition smoothly when you ask him to do it. It’s important that he do it on the correct leg. If you didn’t learn this at riding school or saddle/pony club, hopefully your friend can help you with this also.

If you want a horse for jumping, make sure you put him over a fence or some other reasonably high jump.
Is he eager or is he inclined to baulk and need a lot of encouragement?

It’s important to decide before you visit the horse and try him, exactly what you’re looking for, and what you’re prepared to work with. There’s no point falling in love at first sight with a beautiful animal you can’t control – or one which is reluctant to jump when that is your reason for buying!

In buying a horse you’re forming a partnership which you’ll have for quite some time. Your partner must be chosen very carefully to make sure he is compatible with your level of riding and what you want to do. Commonsense should rule here – not your heart!

5.   When you go to see a horse, should you see him ridden first?

Without a doubt, YES! Should the vendor say there’s no one available to ride him, think about just going home! It may be that the horse is too difficult for anyone to ride. You should only attempt to ride him if you are a very experienced rider – otherwise be prepared to walk away, or at the very least try and arrange a time when you can come back and see him ridden before you try him.

The current owner should ride a routine along the same lines to the one previouly outlined to let you assess the horse’s way of going, and how he responds to the rider’s instructions. If he makes upwards transitions easily for someone else, but not for you, this may be something that can be overcome with some lessons – but be wary. There is a saying that a horse’s ability sinks to match those of its rider! Just because the horse you’ve fallen in love with makes flying changes on demand for its current owner does not mean that it will make them for you if you can’t ride at the same level of competence.

6.  You’ve found the horse you want. Is there anything else I should do before buying him?

Just one thing more. And it’s really essential. You need to arrange to have your potential new horse thoroughly checked by a qualified veterinarian. Try to select a vet who is well experienced in dealing with horses. Yes, it is quite expensive, but a few dollars spent now could save you a lot of heartache and many dollars in the years to come.

Finally, be prepared for it to take quite a few months to find the right horse for you and to fit him out with the right saddle and tack, but be assured the wait will be worthwhile. One thing is almost certain. At the finish that palamino mare you had pictured yourself riding away into the sunset may well turn out to be a percherson thoroughbred cross gelding! But whatever size, colour or sex you end up with, if you’ve taken your time choosing, you’ll have a wonderful partnership for many years to come!

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