Horse Care For Beginners » horse care

Navicular Disease (or more accurately, Navicular Syndrome) and your Horse

Russell — Sat, 17 Sep 2011 07:35:41 +0000

Understanding and Treating Navicular Disease.

Treating navicular disease

There are a variety of disorders that can affect your horse, so it is important to have a farm vet that you can call when things go wrong. If you want to provide the very best care, however, your best bet is to simply learn about horse health. When you do this, it is easier to prevent ailments and injuries when feasible.

One such medical condition that can be protected against is known as navicular disease (navicular syndrome). By learning how to treat your horse properly, you can make sure that he is never ever affected by these health problems.

Navicular disease is the most common cause of a horse being lame.

While the term “disease” is regularly used, this is actually not an accurate term, because problems with a horse’s navicular region is 100 % due to treatment by the owners. Improper care is a major problem and can lead not only to navicular “disease,” but also to a variety of other health problems with your horse. Navicular Disease is a soundness problem in horses. It most widely
describes a swelling or degeneration of the navicular bone and its encircling tissues, commonly on the front feet. It can lead to significant and even disabling lameness.

The navicular bone has two main purposes in the horse’s lower leg. First, is protects the joints from pressure when the horse is walking, running, and even standing. The second reason hoses have a navicular bone is to distribute blood into the horse’s hoof. Both of these things are important for a horse’s overall health.

Navicular problems are mostly found in horses confined to stalls and to horses with strong physical demands placed upon them. Poor foot care and the horse’s shoes can also be problems. If your horse has navicular problems, the best things you can do are removing the shoes and keeping him or her in a meadow.

This medical condition is not hereditary, so by giving your horse a better life, the problem should clear and your horse will not have to be put down. Just remember, a horse’s hooves have to be trimmed properly and regularly and problems with the hooves treated quickly.

With proper care for your horse, problems like navicular disease can be avoided altogether. Horses require a lot of medical attention care, so before you get yourself a horse, make sure that you have enough time and money to provide your horse with a good home. It’s a good idea beforem you take on a horse that you talk to your vet to make sure that it’s a wise thing to do.

Once you do get a horse you’ll be responsible for horse’s well being and minimising the risk of navicular disease.

Do It Yourself Parelli Horse Training.

Russell — Wed, 15 Jun 2011 07:10:16 +0000

Parelli horse training is considered to be the first Do it

yourself horse training program .

Parelli horse training

The Parelli horse training program is named after the founder, Pat Parelli. He developed the program over his twenty five years of training horses. It’s said that the reason he developed the Parelli horse training program is due to the fact that he believed through giving deeper information with regards to training horses, people can release their potential when it comes to training horses.

The Parelli horse training program is all about the development of the self. The first 3 phases are made specifically to teach the human. After that, the next level is all about the horse. This is the part where a hands-on approach is needed because it’s more detailed. There are ten levels to work through before you can say you’ve achieved the mastery of a human to horse relationship.

Parelli horse training Level One.

Level one is where trust and respect is built. It is made to help the owners or riders to create a positive impact on the horses. This first level will also teach you how you can communicate with your horse and teach some things that your horse needs to understand while he is being ridden

Parelli horse training Level Two.

In the second level, you’ll start to develop your independence and confidence with the horses, learning how to read your horse’s behavior in advance and utilizing psychology to cause the horse to do those things you want him him to do.

Parelli horse training Level Three.

Level three is about polishing those things you’ve taught your horse during the first two levels. This time, your communication with your horse is more subtle with accurate and more précised reactions asked of your horse. This level is about finesse and grace. You’ll also need to teach your horse the vertical flexion and know its benefits.

Parelli horse training Level Four.

Level four is for those who want to achieve a higher level of performance in regard to horsemanship, difficult horses, young horses and different horses.

The levels five to ten are about unity. The fifth level is the start of having a background on how to achieve unity.

The next four levels are made for achieving true unity. The true unity is what drives most dedicated horsemen. Having a physical, emotional and as well as mental unity with the horse is something rare and very special.

The final level is the mastery of true unity. This is a lifetime task because it can’t be achieved in just a few years of training. This is a continuous process that takes a lot of time before your horse masters the unity with nature and as well as with you as the rider.

It is the objective of the Parelli horse training program to achieve this.

Recommended Resources: Natural Horsemanship Training Videos … CLICK HERE

Paperback: Raise Your Hand if You Love Horses: Pat Parelli’s Journey
from Zero to Hero … CLICK HERE

Recognize and Prevent White Line Disease in Your Horse

Russell — Fri, 15 Apr 2011 07:53:47 +0000

Horses are a very sturdy animal in that they tend to be

healthy and are less prone to sickness than other animals

may be.

White Line Disease

But it’s important to note that because of their unusual anatomy, they spend nearly all of their time standing. In fact, horses rarely lay down; a horse that lays down more than a couple of hours is mostly likely very ill. This is why it’s imperative that a horse’s feet and hooves are well cared for; many of the most common equine ailments have to do with horses’ hooves. Taking care of your horse’s hooves and keeping them well shod helps to ensure that his hooves will stand up to everyday wear and tear without problem.

White Line Disease is a common ailment in horses. It starts out as a simple white line around the hoof, hence the name. This white line doesn’t look like anything serious, but it in fact a sign of the hoof deteriorating. If it’s not taken care of quickly, it can destroy the interior of the hoof causing intense pain for the horse. If left alone, it will cause lameness. Let it go long enough, and you may end up having to put your horse down.

White line disease is caused by a type of anaerobic bacteria (survives without oxygen) that will eat away at the hoof. Treatment involves antibiotic medication and filing down the hooves beyond the point of the affected area. It stands to reason that if the disease has been allowed to progress over a large part of the hoof, this will be more difficult to do.

Prevention of white line disease is much simpler.

Keeping your horse housed in a clean, dry stable is paramount. Hooves absorb moisture, and expand when moist. This opens up any minute cracks to the bacteria. Keep the hooves filed down and make sure your horse is properly shod. Feeding your horse a nutritious diet will also ensure that hooves grow healthy, with less chance of weakness that allows diseases to enter the system.

Obviously, white line disease isn’t the only infirmity that horses can be prone to. Others such as colic or respiratory diseases must also be guarded against. But again, the best way to prevent illness is to make sure that proper preventative care is given: Maintain a clean living environment, keep food stored clean and dry, and give your horse proper grooming. By being a conscientious owner, you can make sure that your horse stays happy and healthy for many years.

See also my article The Importance of Hoof Care.

Recommended Resources:

Applied Posture Riding

Natural Horsemanship Training Videos

Trailer Loading of Horses

Learn about Horse Anatomy

Russell — Mon, 11 Apr 2011 08:21:24 +0000

As a horse owner, it’s important that you have a basic understanding of horse anatomy. Providing the best possible care for you horse requires that you learn as much as you can about their physical needs. Having knowledge of how your horse’s body works not only helps you care for your horse better, it helps you recognize when there’s a problem that may need a veterinarian’s attention.

Many people wonder about horse’s sleep patterns, and how it is possible that they sleep standing up. Horse anatomy is such that lying down can be stressful to a horse and puts pressure on the internal organs because of the horse’s body weight. While horse’s will lie down for one or two hours occasionally to get deep sleep, if you see your horse lying down for a longer period, or if it doesn’t seem to want to stand up, you should contact a veterinarian immediately. It could very well be an emergency situation.

Horse’s feet and legs must be specially tended to and taken care of. Their legs are long and thin, which gives them speed to escape predators but also makes their legs vulnerable to damage or breaking. Broken legs are often life threatening for horses, because, as mentioned above, they are unable to lie down for long periods. This makes it difficult to keep weight off a broken limb and allow it time to heal properly. As a horse owner, you’ll want to make sure that your horse’s feet and legs are well cared for, that hooves are clean and shoes are well attached. You don’t want there to be any problems that could cause the horse to stumble and break a leg.

Your horse’s skin and coat also require appropriate care. Often, if an animal is ill, one of the first signs you’ll have will be shedding hair that lacks luster. Protecting the skin and preventing lesions also help to keep your horse healthy. A horse should be groomed each day, especially if it’s been ridden. As you brush your horse, look for signs of fly bites, scratches or cuts that may need tending. Catching any potential problems early is the best way to keep them from turning serious.

Finally, horses have a well developed circulatory and respiratory system. Their ability to pump oxygen-rich blood to their muscles is what gives them the ability to run for long distances without tiring as a human might. However, this ability doesn’t mean you never need to give your horse a break! As you ride or exercise your horse, keep an eye out for signs of exhaustion or over-heating. Following these tips and you may be able to avoid costly veterinary visits.

Baby Horses: Caring for Newborn Foals.

Russell — Thu, 31 Mar 2011 03:52:09 +0000

There’s going to be some excitement whenever you have little ones that enter your life or the life of your animal.

Caring for newborn foals is a very important part of raising horses, and it is something that you should know a lot about right from the start.

You’re first consideration is to be sure that you’ve tended to the foaling mare before she gives birth. You want to be confident that you’re feeding her a food that is going to help her maintain good health, and that you are giving her things to help her to gain the strength as well as the nutrients that she is going to need to be the kind of mother she should be. You’re going to want to make sure that you talk to a vet if you have never taken care of a mother horse before, and if you’ve never had to look after a foaling mare before you need get a vet’s advice so that you know what to expect and what you need to do.

When the time comes for the foal to be born, you’ll want to help as much as you can. But probably the best thing you can do is to stay out of the way. However there are some circumstances where you are going to have to help, which is why it is important that you talk to a vet about what is normal for a horse giving birth and what is not normal, and you need to make sure that you understand just what to look for. Then, you’ll want to be there, but at a distance, and you need to be ready to help if the mother needs it. You should have prepared for this by talking to your vet and by having things on hand that you might need.

When it comes time for the mother to give birth, if you don’t need to help you still want to be on hand just in case. Then, you should be able to witness her foaling and watch what happens. With foals, as well as with other animals, if at all possible you want to leave the mother and the baby to do the things that they have to do. Animals have been doing this for a long time and it will often go best if you leave. them alone. If you have to help, try to be as discrete as possible, and be sure to do only the things that you absolutely know how to do.

Choose The Right Rug For Your Horse.

Russell — Sat, 19 Mar 2011 00:16:28 +0000

The different kinds of horse rugs.

In this Post I’d like to briefly talk about some of the different kinds of horse rugs. I’m sure you’ll be aware of the importance of horse rugs to provide protection for your horse in varying conditions, both inside and outside his stable. You can select the blankets you need from a whole range of different kinds, each serving a specific purpose. These include …

The stable rug.

As its name indicates, stable rugs are used to keep your horse warm and comfortable when he’s in his stable. Depending on your your taste, you can choose between light, medium and heavy with each providing your horse with a different degree of warmth. You may wish to vary these to cater for varying times of the year. Also you may wish to use a neck cover to complement the rug.

I’d suggest that once you’ve started to use a rug at night, you don’t leave it off, even on milder nights to prevent your horse from catching a chill. Preferably wait until the weather allows you to leave it off permanently.

All-in-one rug.

These are usually completely waterproof and provide protection for both your horse’s neck and body. They’re mostly medium-weight and you can use these in order to keep your horse clean and dry when he’s outside. I should mention that some horses resent a head cover at first. If this is the case with your horse give him a little time to get used to it before turning him out.

The sweat sheet.

This is mesh rug and can be used after a hard workout to provide a little warmth against the cooling effect of sweating while still permitting the sweat to evaporate. A sweat sheet can be used on your horse, secured by a roller, both in the stable and out in the pasture.

The exercise sheet.

The exercise sheet is fitted under your horse’s saddle to provide warmth, if he has been clipped, during slow work. The sheet covers his hindquarters but leave the shoulders free for movement. If you’re going to be doing fast work an exercise sheet shouldn’t be used as it will stop sweat from evaporating causing overheating.

Fly rug or fly sheet.

It’s also known as a summer sheet. Typically this type of rug or sheet protects your horse from biting flies and insects when he’s outside in the pasture. This rug is not waterproof and is usually made of a fine mesh material that is actually impenetrable to insects. Normally the surcingles, or straps, go from front to back, crossing under your horse’s belly, to hold down the light material in the wind.

Checking your horse when he’s wearing a rug and turned out.

It’s important that you do this. I suggest that you keep an eye out on your horse when he’s turned out just in case the rug you’re using slips out of place. I know that this does happen because my partner’s horse has a habit of playfully biting at my horse’s rug pulling it to one side.

If your horse’s rug does slip, it’s best to take it right off and then put it back on. If you just pull it back into place, you’ll rub your horse’s coat the wrong way causing discomfort. I recommend that you always tie your horse up when you remove and put on his rug. If you don’t you may find that your horse will gallop off with the rug half on!

Equestrian Wear – Tips On The Use Of Horse Rugs, Boots, and Bandages.

Lucinda Green’s Equestrian Challenge.

Russell — Fri, 18 Mar 2011 07:14:18 +0000

Once again, as a change of pace for my Posts, this time I’m talking about a “horse game”.

Lucinda Green is a record holder in the Badminton Horse Trials. She won the trials for an astounding six times! What’s more, she rode six different horses during those trials! Isn’t that just amazing? Now, you can share her experience in the thrills of being an equestrian through Lucinda Green’s Equestrian Challenge.

The game challenges players on three fronts: cross country, show jumping and dressage. The ultimate goal of the game is for you to win all four-star events in Adelaide, Badminton, Burghley, and Kentucky. Before you get ahead of yourself, however, you need to cover the basics.

The game starts with you as a young two-star equestrian taken under the wings of Lucinda Green. Full customization of the character allows you to create a rider that truly matches who you are or, at least, who you perceive yourself to be.

You also get to take care of your own horse. This is a very important aspect of the game, as your success depends on the amount of work you put into training and caring for the horse. It must be fed, watered, brushed, among other things. You also need to make sure that its attributes are distributed properly so that you will be able to grab the prize every competition.

There are four “stats” or attributes that you need to balance. They are: Speed, Stamina, Jumping, Agility, and Trust. Each person will be able to develop a horse differently by simply adjusting the allotment of stats.

Lucinda Green teaches you and trains you until you can compete in the four-star competitions. At this level, you will pit your character in various contests against the biggest names in riding today.

Graphically, the game is stunning. That is, if you compare it to other equestrian games today. The customizability of the character is also a nice touch. However, the gameplay is nothing revolutionary. The game just does not push any gaming boundaries.

It is less tedious than other games, which means you can enjoy yourself more and take care of the details less. After all, gamers who buy equestrian games are more interested in the competition rather on the simulated horse-care lessons, right? The life of the game is also quite good: you are able to enjoy the different challenges and you don’t end up feeling a bit disappointed because of the length.

However, the repetitive motions that one must go through in order to compete and the actions involved in taking care of the horse can be very dull at times. The menu is also quite clumsy and this means that you might have a hard time navigating around the controls.

Not many people are bound to buy equestrian games. It just doesn’t seem like a genre that appeals to the common couch soldier/strategist/athlete. Equestrian challenge attempts to change this through lots and lots of eye candy. However, its sticking to realism doesn’t really help in making it more popular with gamers. Even a little bit of imagination could surely have helped this game.

The bottom line is this: Equestrian Challenge is a great game. In fact, it’s superior to any equestrian games available today. However, if you are not fond of the sport, you might not see enough in this game to try it out. You should get this game if you love horses, but if you are the typical point-and-shoot guy, you might want to skip it.

The Importance of Hoof Care.

Russell — Fri, 04 Feb 2011 22:19:26 +0000

Here’s a simple checklist for you to refer to in your daily grooming routine.

Caring for your horse’s hooves is a important part of maintaining your horses overall health. If at all possible depending on your day’s routine you should check your horses hooves daily. At the very least, two to three times per week. You’ll find you become very familiar with what is normal and what is not, and to notice any problems that may be starting. To help you with this checking, here’s a simple checklist for you to refer to in your daily grooming routine.

1. As you approach your horse make sure the symmetry of his hooves is close. They don’t have to be exactly equal, but very close to the same size and shape.

2. Then carefully look for defects in the wall and coronary bands. Pick up each hoof, run your hand over the outside of the wall to feel for defects. You can use the exact same procedure for the coronary band, then squeeze it gently, these two procedures will also show tender spots and any moisture bearing areas.

3. Carefully inspect the sole. Check the coloring in each hoof. They should be the same in color. A clearly delineated dark spot indicates a bruise or puncture wound that my need veterinary attention.

4. Next,look and compare your horse’s frogs. The two front hooves should be similar in size and shape and the same with the rear hooves. You should lightly press each frog with your hoof pick, in most areas, with the exception of desert areas. They should be slightly spongy.

5. If your horse is shod, grasp the shoe and see if it wiggles. If it does, check for missing clinches. Should any shoe be loose you may choose to remove the shoe before your horse loses it on his own with the possible result of taking a chunk of his hoof with it.

If you keep a good close eye on your horses hooves, you can avoid a lot of issues by catching the problem before it gets severe. I’d recommend you work into your regular hoof cleaning a few simple steps. Use your hoof pick from heel to toe. If it is tightly packed you may need to loosen it up a bit before it’s removed. Once all the debris is removed, check all the areas of the hoof and make sure there is not a bad odor as this is a clear cut sign of thrush. Also make sure there are no pebbles or stones lodged anywhere, even under the shoe.

Your horses hooves should exhibit a natural glossy luster of the hoof wall. Plus a smooth uniform surface free of cracks, rings, dishes and flares and a concave sole that touches the shoe. If you have all of that, you can be pretty sure that your horses hooves are in good health.

I recently came across an excellent DVD that’s ideal for the young ones on a wet day inside. So I thought I’d pass on the following review and a link to get yourself a copy.

Saddle Club – Horse Crazy – The New Movie DVD

“I really thought this movie was good. To be sure, it is a children’s movie, specifically for young horse-crazy girls. There are a few boys that ride in it also. Very age appropriate fare for your stable/barn kids to watch and enjoy over and over again, it follows several story lines all related to life at the barn for a group of girls and boys that own and work with the horses there. As a grown up horse-crazy woman now, I enjoyed it with my 4 year old daughter and certainly would have loved for this series to be around when I was that age! Two thumbs up for young entertainment with no veiled adult-type references, no skimpy clothes, and no bad language, just good stories that are fun and horse-centric”.

Click HERE for a link to buy.

Plants Poisonous to Horses.

Russell — Fri, 24 Dec 2010 01:52:24 +0000

I was surprised when I saw just how many plants are poisonous to horses.

There’s been a lot written on the subject, but I have never before stopped to really think about just how extensive the listI’ll not try to cover them all (Wikipedia lists over 80 species) but just those that probably the most significant.

Common Yew

is, and just how dangerous some plants can be to horses. Obviously the list of plants will vary according to a number of factors such as which country or territory you’re in, the climatic conditions including the temperature range and rainfall, and the condition of your pasture.

Plant poisoning symptoms.

When I talk about individual plants I’ll mention some specific symptoms and affects, but here are some more generalised ones. Naturally the species of plant and the amount eaten will dictate the symptoms, but in general plants can affect the cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, respiratory systems and also the blood, kidneys and liver. So when you stop and think, it’s all a bit scary. To make things worse, it’s often difficult to diagnose plant poisoning in your horse because many of the symptoms are so similar to other conditions.

Even if you just suspect that your horse may have eaten a poisonous plant I’d suggest that you get in touch with your vet immediately, even if it turns out to be a false alarm. Be on the lookout for these signs:

* difficulty swallowing * colic * disorientation * muscle spasms * tremors *unprovoked frenzy * abnormal amounts or colors of urine * fluctuating heartbeat *fluctuating respiratory rate * excessive salivation * and, at worst, total collapse.

Here are some of the more commonly known poisonous plants.

First, this is probably the most toxic plant, the Yew. It can cause sudden death. A horse can even die with leaves still in its mouth.

Red Maple

The red maple (acer rubrum), the rather attractive red leaves are toxic to horses in summer and autumn. Eating these leaves can cause your horse to become jaundiced and anaemic.

Paterson’s Curse (also known as Salvation Jane) has been responsible for the deaths of many horses.

Deadly nightshade contains atropine which dilates a horse’s pupils. An affected horse may lose its capicity to stand.

Oak (Quercus). Oak leaves and acorns are both poisonous to horses. They can cause constipation and kidney damage, possibly because they contain tannic acid.

Ragwort. Even dry Ragwort is toxic. It has a cumulative effect and can cause fibrosis of the liver and acute liver failure.

Sorghum can be harmful to your horse due to the cyanide and nitrate content. It may cause significant breathing problems and even death.

Bracken which is extremely widespread in southern Australia. Bracken is cumulatively toxic in large amounts and, unfortunately, stays toxic even in hay. An affected horse will stand with its back arched and feet apart, growing more and more sleepy.

St John’s Wort which causes white skin to become sensitive to light and sunburn.

Horsetale which grows in moist, rich soils. A horse affected by Horsetail will start to stagger and eventually fall over.

Avoidance action.

You’re probably wondering what you can do to minimise the risk of your horse eating toxic plants. I must admit that I’m by no means an expert on this but I can make a couple of suggestions. The first one is to walk through your pasture paddocks looking for suspect plants as often as possible. I do this daily as I take my dogs out first thing in the day to inspect the horses and cattle, as well as my fencing.

Then, bearing in mind that most poisonous plants have an unpleasant taste and your horse will normally avoid them, realise that if he’s extremely hungry he will probably eat whatever is available. So the thing to do is to to make sure your horse has plenty of good quality forage and feed.

I trust that this brief summary of some plants poisonous to horses is helpful to you and will finsh by saying again, if you even suspect poisoning, call your veterinarian immediately.

Separation Anxiety in Horses.

Russell — Tue, 14 Dec 2010 23:18:39 +0000

Helping a lonely horse …

Tasmania, the island State south of the Australian mainland, is unique in that you only have to travela few kilometres from Hobart, the capital city, to be in virtual bushland and farming land. I live more than 70 kms from Hobart and as I drive around I’m somewhat saddened to see so many horses alone on so many properties. Horses are herd animals, so these solitary horses could quite well, in fact probably are, lonely

My first experience of horse loneliness was about nine years ago. A year prior my partner, Jill, and I moved from the mainland to a property in Tasmania bringing our horses with us … plus two dogs and a cat! We’d been here roughly a year and where just driving out to meet a friend in Hobart. Our horses were in our front paddock and as we drove past I had a feeling that something was wrong. I glanced into the paddock and saw my horse, but no sign of Jill’s horse, Satin. I stopped the car, went through the fence and walked towards my horse, Middie. Then I saw that he was standing next to Satin who was stretched out on the ground. Then I suddenly knew Satin was no longer with us. It turned out that he had succumbed to a snake bite.

Middie became a lonely horse.

My horse’s reaction to the passing of Satin was typical of a lonely horse. Middie paced the fence line for hours at a time. From time to time he paused and gave a pathetic whinny. I tried to help Middie by taking him off the property for leisurely rides. This didn’t work so I arranged for a neighbour to graze his horse in Middie’s paddock. However, this was only a temporary solution.

Another neighbour to the rescue!

Reasonably close to our property was a large horse stud. The owner of the stud had been told about my dilemma and it turned out that he had a five year old thoroughbred steeplechaser that had taken a bad fall which had ended his racing career. The horse had been put out to pasture and had not been ridden for quite some months. I was extremely fortunate as the stud owner called in and offered me the horse on a permanent loan basis. Of course I readily accepted the offer and the chestnut ex-steeplechaser was delivered to our property. Middie welcomed the new arrival and they became the best of friends.

What I learned about horse loneliness.

It appears that horses that are stressed due to being alone will frequently show signs of uneasiness. Pacing the fence line, as Middle did, is common behaviour as in excessive whinnying. The persistent pacing can cause stress on the legs and hooves to the extent that it can cause lameness.

Worse, severe stress can cause ulcers which can result in behavioural or training problems, dulling of the coat, lack of enthusiasm for work, and perhaps biting and kicking during girthing.

If you have an only horse.

It’s important for you to be aware of how your horse is coping with being alone. It’s always best for a horse to be with at least one other horse, but sometimes that’s not always possible. If your horse seems happy and gets plenty of attention, he might be OK. But just keep an eye out for behaviours that tell you he’s stressed and lonely and is crying out for a companion.

What to do to prevent loneliness.

One way to overcome the possibility of stress and loneliness is to get another horse. This could well be an older or a lame horse that is past its prime and is no longer rideable.. If you have the space and can afford it, this is the ideal solution. A further idea which is not so costly is to board another horse.

Should you not be able to afford another companion for your horse think about a less expensive animal such as a pony, donkey, goat, or llama. Very often this type of animal does the trick of avoiding loneliness. But a word of warning. Both Jill’s Satin and my Middie reacted violently the first time they met a donkey!

And finally, an unhappy horse makes for an unhappy owner. Making your horse happy will ensure that he is willing to perform the required work for you to the best of his ability.