Due to budget restrictions, when I purchased my first horse while in my early 50s, the saddle I got was a low cost vinyl saddle. Some time

My horse, Midnight.

 later, following the advice of one of my Saddle Club instructors,I graduated to a quality, secondhand leather saddle which I use to this very day. My riding was basically confined to my monthly all-day Saddle Club instructor-type days, and to my very frequent outings into hidden roadside tracks and the more challenging bush tracks.

However I did find that after a few hours of both activities, in spite of the undoubted quality of my Australian made saddle, I did become a little bit sore. But then I found the solution! I invested in a hand-made lambswool saddle cover. This had been dyed black, so was color-cordinated with my black Percheron/Thorobred cross (that’s him, Midnight, in the pic) This really was great, both in terms of comfort and durability.

Back to the Western Saddles

I’ve often wondered, if had I know about them, whether I’d have been better off had I gone for one of the numerous versions of a Western Saddle. So purely out of interest I recently did a little research on this form of saddle. Not being a teenager any more, I thought that perhaps the western saddle would have given me more security when riding, particularly the horn which I felt I could hang onto if I suddenly felt insecure (I was accustomed to using a martingale which was always there for me to grab in an emergency). But my little bit of research told me that “for a beginner rider, the western saddle may give the impression of providing a more secure seat … this is misleading as the horn is not meant to be a handle for the rider to hang onto, and the high cantle and heavy stirrups are not forcing the rider into a rigid position”. This has given me quite some food for thought!

More on Western Saddles

My limited research, however, convinced me that I would have been more than happy with a western saddle – largely due to the fact that there so many variations that I could choose from.

Do you know about the most common variations?

The trail saddle. This undoubtedly would have been my choice. A saddle designed for great comfort for the rider, but importantly, a comfortable fit for your horse. Ideally suited to long periods in the saddle spent at a leisurely pace.

 Then there are:

A show saddle for the energetic rider involved in activities such as cutting and roping. The roping saddle which enables the rider to dismount quickly which is essential when you’re working with cattle. And the cutting saddle which allows the rider to sit deep and securely through sharp turns and stops. The barrel racing saddle which allows your horse to perform fast sprints and turns while still allowing the rider to sit securely. The equitation saddle which is a show saddle, deep seated to help hold a rider in the saddle.

And finally, I found the endurance saddle, one that is considerably lighter than the other western saddles, frequently without the horn and with a structure that spreads the rider’s weight over quite a large portion of the horse’s back. Basically it’s purpose is to cope with long rides at faster speeds than my type of trail riding.

 Here are some features of the Western Saddle that I was not aware of …

If you know about the structure of a saddle you’ll appreciate the differences I learned about. For example, the stirrups of the western saddle can’t be detached from the saddle. Apparently they are wider to comfortably accommodate a rider’s high-heeled boots and to minimise the possibility of a rider’s feet slipping through and being dragged if the horse falls.

The Seat and the Cantle of a western saddle are more prominent that in an English type saddle. Presumably for great security and comfort for the rider. And with the girthing, rather than buckling as you’d do with an English-type saddle, the western girth (known as a cinch) you anchor a flat strap of leather or nylon that is secured with a flat knot. Although sometimes with holes added so that a buckle can be used. The other thing is found is that the Tree of a western saddle is normally larger and covers more surface than any other more English types of saddle.

 So would I have bought a Western Saddle?

 I think I would have if I’d known what I’ve now learned.

 From what I hear, western saddles last a lifetime, and often beyond! And they do look so secure and comfortable. My horse, Midnight, being so big and strong (16+ hands) would have been well-suited to a western saddle. But then, my good old Australian second-hand saddle is still serving me well!

Related posts:

1. A Modern Jumping saddle – the Pessoa AO.
2. Selecting the Right Horse Riding Saddle is Vital: Tips on Selection and Fitting.
3. Wintec 2000 – Just One Of An Extensive Range of Saddles For All Riders!

I was motivated to write this Post about Wintec  after becoming aware of it’s evolution (and also being Australian,  just like me!). Apparently Ron and Ken Bates, owners of Bates Saddlery Australia on Perth, Western Australia are the designers behind the revolutionary Wintec saddles.

Wintec 500 All Purpose Saddle

I learned from further research that this first ever full cloth race saddle was given to a local jockey to test. He absolutely loved the saddle and would, in fact, take it into the shower with him after a race to wash the mud and sweat off it. In no time there were enough jockeys interested in the saddle to send it into full scale production.

The Wintec saddles took the global market by storm, especially in England where in 8 out of the next 10 years the famous English Derby was won by jockeys riding in Wintec saddles.

I’ll probably do Posts on other Wintec products at a later stage, such as the Wintec 500 and the Wintec dressage saddle, but for this Post I cover some of the features of  the …

Wintec 2000

Wintec 2000 All Purpose Saddle

The Wintec 2000, a strong contender in the synthetic all purpose family saddle field. Toward the top of the all purpose range, this great multi discipline saddle offers exceptional performance. It feature Flexibloc inset panels that form to your horse and you, the rider, working with the deep designed Equisuade saddle to promote a stronger riding position. The popularity of this saddle is understandable when you consider the Wintec 2000 offers the best of all worlds to riders.

With a formidable heritage, the Wintec 2000 takes some of the strongest features of the synthetic all purpose range. The range boasts a number of new attributes to ensure you get the most out of your saddle.

Features of note.

• Easy Change Gullet System – adapting to your horse or pony as it matures, the gullet can be changed to assure a marvellous fit.
• Equisuade Saddle – ensuring a excellent grip in the saddle even in wet weather.
• CAIR system – Greatly improving the comfort of you saddle, this system reduces friction points on your horse or pony. (The CAIR system is also available in the Wintec girth range which has also taken off in popularity).

Real Riders

The Wintec 2000 invariably scores high with real riders who cite quality and security as the key features of this saddle. The saddle is soft and comfortable unlike many leather saddles. The design of the seat gives an improved position enabling you to sit more properly with the fabric of the Equisuade adding to the feel.

Likes

• The Equisuade seat compared to basic end Equileather seats meaning you can essentially benefit from the improved grip provided by the fabric.
• With the gullet system meaning you don’t have to buy a new saddle as you switch horses means this saddle is a excellent investment. Very straight forward maintenance saves you cash and work.
• Just rinse off the saddle with warm water while your friends have to oil and treat their leather saddles.

Dislikes

• The grip provided by the saddle can take a bit of getting used to. A few riders have suggested the Equisuade holds some moisture for a period after rain.
• Change is distressing for some people and they see anything but leather as inferior. ( I’ll cover the features of synthetic saddles in a later Post).

There’s a lot to recommend the Wintec 2000 saddle and this will be appreciated most by multi discipline riders who are looking for function and value. As well as trusting your saddle, you need to be able to rely on your supplier. Wonderful guarantees and a ‘trial ride’ service make the organization at the link above a great recommendation. But as always, I strongly recommend that you check out all  suppliers available to you

Related posts:

1. Synthetic Saddles: What are the Benefits?
2. A Modern Jumping saddle – the Pessoa AO.
3. Saddles and tack: Tighten up the girth ~ or not?

 More about horse bits (refer also to previous Posts).

The Snaffle Bit and the Curb Bit

Generally types of horse bits are divided into either the Snaffle Bit or Curb bit.  A somewhat simplistic division but in this post we’re looking in more detail at the different types of Snaffle Bit and some of the more exotic features you can find on this, what seems to be just a humble bit.

A snaffle bit  covers quite a broad category of horse bits however they all feature a single common factor in that they allow you to signal your intention to your horse through direct force by the pulling of one or both reigns.

The basis of a snaffle bit.

For background , a snaffle bit is made from a bar or mouthpiece and on each side there are rings connected with different amounts of freedom to move at each end. The snaffle bit sits in the horse’s mouth resting on the gums not the teeth, in the space behind the front incisors and the molars behind often refered to as the “bars”.

For now we’re going to concentrate on just some of the different types of mouthpiece that you can get with your snaffle bit and what function these different types have.

The mouthpiece of a snaffle bit can take many forms but here we’re going to review the following mouthpiece styles:

• one solid piece
• single jointed in the middle
• double jointed in the middle
• multi-link or chain

Solid one piece mouth-pieces may be moulded rubber and sometimes gently curved, called a Mullen.  They tend to be softer and it places even pressure on the mouthpiece, lips, and bars and works well for young horses.  However you must be cautious about describing a bit as mild as the skill of the rider has a big impact on this, however all things being equal and when compared to other types, this is a mild mouthpiece.

For horses needing a little stronger signalling, the bit designers gave us the “broken” bit.

When the rider pulls on the reins, the mouthpiece breaks at a central join, forming an angle and applying a “nutcracker” effect on your horses tongue.  Also, and depending on the height of your horses mouth, the “point” of the broken piece may touch the roof of the mouth providing a further “signal”. The mouthpiece can still be made from softer material such as vulcanite.

Remember, the skilled rider “signals” his intention to the horse so force should not be necessary the majority of the time. Observe how your horse behaves with these bits. If it’s causing discomfort such as spiking the roof of the mouth your horse may not only raise his head up and down but also poke his nose out, as a sign that he is trying to relieve the pain.   If you have one of these you might want to put it over your wrist and close it like a nutcracker, then you’ll get some idea of what your horse is getting ! So learn to be subtle with your use of these bits. Try not to yank hard.

Double jointed mouthpieces.

Where the single jointed bit hits the mouth and causes the horse too much discomfort, double jointed mouthpieces were developed which also give the tongue a bit more room .  Two very popular forms of this style of bit are French Link e.g. french mouth full cheek and the Dr Bristol style e.g. dr bristol full cheek.  The Dr Bristol style compared to the French Link has a longer link  i.e. the middle section .  The link is also angled so that when the bit is pulled , the edge of the link presses into the tongue as a fairly sharp signal. The French Link has a shorter link and is flat or angled differently so that the flat edge of the link contacts the tongue therefore being milder.

The chain style bit.

The chain style of bits often attract a little controversy on their harshness or otherwise. At least in part a bit may be a problem if the rider is a problem so whether a bit is mild or harsh is not specifically down to the bit.  A popular type of chain bit the waterford full cheek comprises a chain of three or more interlinking pieces.  As such, this chain style of bit tends to slide back and forth across the horses mouth with the “nobbly” bits of the chain giving the signal as well as the chain engaging with the sides of the mouth.  These bits are often chosen by owners of bigger horses or excitable horses that might take the bit and run .  The chain style of bit because of its chain feature doesn’t offer the horse anything to fight against, it is too fluid so can work well in controlling such horses.

It pays to seek expert advice.

The effect on the horse of any bit can be drastic and so seek expert advice to ensure the bit will actually help you.

Remember there is a balance between being too soft on your horse and not firm enough. Going for the soft option can lead to bad habits that are then more difficult to address later on, and being too harsh can cause your horse pain and discomfort and is just bad in every way.

The snaffle bit offers a surprising amount of flexibility in its features so be sure to do your research to find the right one for you.

A recommended supplier of tack:  Horse Saddle Shop

Recommended Resources:

Applied Posture Riding

Natural Horsemanship Training Videos

Trailer Loading of Horses

Related posts:

1. The Snaffle Bit. Simple but effective.
2. The Curb bit. What the horse rider needs to know.
3. What You Need to Know About The Pelham Horse Bit.

These tips well help you to correctly bridle your  horse?

Irrespective of what you may call them: equestrian bridles, horse bridles, or just plain old ‘bridles’, bridling a horse is not as easy as it may seem. If you do something wrong, it may be do long term trauma to your horse. And you may may be affected or injured as well.

Before putting a bridle on a horse, you must be aware that there is an area in a horse’s mouth known as the “interdental space”. It is an area with no teeth found on the lower and upper jaws. The area is between the back teeth, which are the “molars” and the front teeth, called “incisors”. The bit rests on this interdental space when your horse is bridled correctly. Horse lovers also call this area of bare gums, particularly on the posterior jaw, bars.

The interdental space is also a spot where you or your horse trainer can insert a thumb when you want to ask your horse to open his mouth. An example of this is to ask your horse to accept the bit when the bridle is being put on.

Horse Bridling Tips

1. Tie up your equine in a comfortable place with a halter on. Do not have your horse tied without wiggle room in case he has a habit of pulling back when scared. Although your horse can be bridled without the halter on, it is still best to bridle him while his halter is in place until you completely understand your horse and his needs.

2. Stand on the near side of the your horse, which is normally the left side, when mounting the bridle.

3. You may make use of schooling aids to make bridling easier for you. A running martingale may be used to keep your horse from throwing his head upwards. Drop nosebands can also make it easy to keep your horse’s mouth shut. Ideally you won’t need this type of equipment as your horse develops trust in you.

4. Allow your horse to lower his head and make sure the bridle is untangled and ready to put on. Put your arm over your horse’s neck and hold the bridle loosely on the opposite side of thyour horse. Put the bridle on the lowest setting possible to make sure it can fit on your horse’s head easily.  You can adjust it once it’s on your horse.

5. Next, remove the halter from his face. Then replace it around his neck so your horse isn’t able to wandering off.

6. Be sure that you can reach the top of your horse’s head. If not, you can use a mounting block to make it easier.

7. With your right hand, grab the head stall. It is the piece fitting over your horse’s head. Then hold the bit with your finger and thumb so that it is stable. Introduce it to your horse’s mouth gently, placing a finger in the crack of his mouth to ask him to open it. A well trained horse should unthinkingly open his mouth. If you have a cue or command to get your horse to open his mouth, use it.

8. Gently slip the bit into his mouth. Never force it. When the bit is in place, slip the top part of the headstall over your horse’s ears.

9. The length of the face strap should be adjusted. Ideally, there is one small wrinkle at the corner of your horse’s mouth. Make sure his forelock is pulled out of the straps and none of the straps are tangled or broken.

10. Next would be the adjustment of the chin strap if your headstall has one. Keep this loose as it is a tool for pressure.

11. Your left hand should hold both reins while undoing the halter with your other hand. When walking with your horse, make him value your space. Never tie your horse with the leather headstall reins.

A FREE gift for you from our Guest Post writer.

If you thought this article was helpful you are invited to send for his FREE Horse Training DVD   It’s got many videos on how to bridle a horse horse training tips, techniques, and more of his training methods.

A recommended supplier of tack:  Horse Saddle Shop

Related posts:

1. Facts About Teeth Floating.
2. Equestrian Wear – Tips On The Use Of Horse Rugs, Boots, and Bandages.
3. Grooming Tips For Horses ~ A Major Part of Easy Horse Care.

Horse bits are the key to effective horse riding.  There are countless different variations of horse bit available in the market place with each one providing features than can give excellent or terrible results depending on the choice and the skills of the rider concerned .

Broadly speaking horse bits are divided into two categories, Snaffles and Curb bits. Snaffles allow the rider to control his horse via direct pressure transmitted through the bit i.e. the same quantity of force exerted by the rider is applied to the horse via the bit.  In the case of a Curb bit there is a leverage principle at work and the force exerted by the rider is amplified . Very simply a Curb bit can be pictured as a capital ‘H’ where the amount of force transmitted is dependent on the length of the sides of the ‘H’, known as the cheeks.  Also how far up or down the mouthpiece is or in other words how high the ‘-’ on the ‘H’ is, or more acurately the ratio between the ‘purchase’ and the ‘level arm’ impacts the severity of the bit and its action on the mouth and head .

What is the difference between the Snaffle and the Curb Bit?

It is essential at this juncture to point out that this fundamental difference between a Snaffle and a Curb bit, and the difference in force applied to the horse, requires that the rider carefully evaluates the need for a Curb bit.  They must also take a good honest look at their horse riding skills and their ability to use the Curb bit correctly. In fact don’t fit one without appropriate training.

It is commonly said that the Curb bit allows greater control. This has an unfortunate connotation that one must apply discomfort if not pain to your horse for him to submit to your will . A better view is the Curb bit allows you to ‘instruct’ your horse in what you want more firmly, fairly and effectively with a Curb vs a Snaffle.

As you develop as a rider the instructions can become more sophisticated and result in the ability to trigger a wider range of movement from your horse .  Also remember as you develop as a rider your skills will become more subtle and you will loose the somewhat narrow view that the bit ‘controls’ your horse.  For example you can ask your horse to move in certain ways using just your legs and seat and not just yank your horse with the reins. 

More advanced riders that have begun to master the art of subtle and effortless riding sometimes look at using double bridles e.g. Weymouth bit and Weymouth Bradoon.  At this point the rider is fine tuning their interaction with their horse, achieving fine levels of control and responsiveness without any of the roughness and heavy handedness associated with the Curb in the hands of an junior rider. 

Summary.

To summarise the Curb bit is an essential tool for the more experienced rider whom is progressing with their horse to different levels of horsemanship .  However you must be sure that both you and your horse are ready for that move. If you are sure you are ready to evolve to using a curb bit for your horse but are unsure of which type might be best always go for the mildest version and work up.  As always take advice from experienced riders and more than one if possible.

Related posts:

1. Snaffle Bits ~ How Different Types Work.
2. The Snaffle Bit. Simple but effective.
3. The bit is the key to the horse.

Related posts:

1. The Curb bit. What the horse rider needs to know.
2. What You Need to Know About The Pelham Horse Bit.
3. The Snaffle Bit. Simple but effective.

Horse bits are a very important ingredient in the success of the horse and rider’s relationship .  Literally dozens if not hundreds of different types of horse bit can be purchased so understanding how they work and how they can address your problems is critical to your relationship with your horse .

The various horse bit types are broken down into different categories based on the features they have and how they control the horse. Within such categories are sub-categories with bits having different variations on particular features plus additional attributes that enhance its basic features .

What are the categories?

At the top level of the horse bits categories sits Snaffles and Curb bits.  The term Snaffle covers quite a broad category of horse bits.  However they all exhibit a single common principle in that they allow control of the horse via direct force from the rider by the pulling of one or both reigns.

Physically a snaffle bit comprises a straight bar or mouthpiece with rings connected with different degrees of freedom to move at each end. The bit sits in the horse’s mouth resting on the gums not the teeth, in the space behind the front incisors and the molars behind, sometimes referred to as the “bars”.

These two main features of the Snaffle are key to the way the bit behaves .  The mouthpiece can be in one solid piece or it may be “broken” or jointed in the middle . Solid mouthpieces often come made in moulded rubber or vulcanite which is softer on the horse’s mouth and often used for young horses whilst they are being trained to respond to the bit . The jointed bit is created so that the mouthpiece breaks in the middle when the rider pulls the reins inducing a “nutcracker” effect on the horses tongue which provides the control.  The joint can be a single break or it can be two breaks resulting in the mouthpiece forming a “U” shaped instead of a “V” shape. This gives the horse’s tongue more room and can also be kinder on the roof of the mouth.  

The severity of the action of the mouthpiece may be increased by changing the mouth piece from being a smooth material such as stainless steel to using twisted pieces. The effect on the horse can be signficant and as a responsible owner think first of your horse’s welfare and if in doubt ask for advice and don’t rush into a decision that you may regret . 

Remember,  there is a balance between being too soft on the horse and not firm enough.

 Going for the soft option can lead to bad habits that are then more difficult to address later on. Being too agressive can cause your horse pain and discomfort and is just a bad idea in every way.

The rings positioned at each end of the mouthpiece of the Snaffle connect to the reins . Whilst simple in concept they still come in different forms with each type giving subtle effects which together with the mouthpiece provide varying types of control to your horse.  To introduce you this variety we’ll cover some of the more common ring features seen on snaffle type horse bits.

Loose Ring Snaffles are where the rings connected to the mouthpiece are free to rotate and move back and forth causing your horse to chew and hopefully relax and not pull against you .  A quite common problem however with Loose Ring Snaffles is that they can be pulled though your horse’s mouth, plus they can pinch the sides of the mouth .  These problems can be addressed by another type of Snaffle. Fixed Ring Snaffles which are not free to rotate but can move back and forth.  The Eggbutt and the D-ring Snaffle are popular examples.  They have “D” shaped rings rather than “O” shaped and the straight part of the “D” functions to help prevent the bit being pulled through the mouth, ie. it forms a brace against the side of the mouth in both directions.  The Eggbutt has a slightly softer edge to it’s “D” and is therefore kinder to your horse’s mouth.

The Full Cheek Snaffle Bit

The fixed ring effects can be further enforced by using a Full Cheek Snaffle Bit where there is a vertical piece of metal on each end of the mouthpiece as well as the ring. This piece provides a larger surface area in contact with the mouth sides compared to the D-Ring and EggButt. Often to help it stay in the vertical position “keepers” are used to hold it in place. Not only do full cheeks bit pull through they can provide a mild leverage effect and also encourage the horse to move in the direction required.

This is just a brief introduction to the features of Snaffle Bits.  As you can see by careful understanding of your horse’s behaviour and how to control him, you can find a snaffle  to suit your needs.

Related posts:

1. Snaffle Bits ~ How Different Types Work.
2. The Curb bit. What the horse rider needs to know.
3. What You Need to Know About The Pelham Horse Bit.

Unlike their predecessors riding helmets of today serve a purpose beyond making people look good: they are worn for the primary purpose of safety. Although many people don’t stop to think about it, competitive horse riding is a sport that can be fraught with danger. This is the reason why helmets of today are designed and standardised to make sure that a rider does not suffer serious cranial injuries when riding.

 
“Riding or equestrian helmets have sport-specific differences from those used in other sports. For this reason, a helmet designed for another sport, such as bicycle riding helmets, are not deemed suitable for horse riding. The riding helmet covers more of a person’s head than does a bicycle riding helmet, fitting lower on the head, particularly at the back of the skull, and has protection distributed evenly around the head rather than being concentrated in the front and back. Aside from the safety features, aerodynamics are less important in a horse riding helmet than in a bicycle helmet. The appearance of horse riding helmets is frequently based on that of an English hunt cap. Additionally good ventilation and comfort are considered important features of a horse riding helmet”.*

 “Certified helmets are required headgear for a number of competitive riding events, particularly where horse and rider must work or jump at high speed. Helmets are worn more often by English-style riders and are gaining acceptance as required headgear for children. They are most widely accepted in activities such as eventing, show jumping, or horse racing. They are required in eventing, in endurance riding and other types of competitions. Riders who take their horses hacking or trail riding sometimes wear helmets, though there are tremendous variations in helmet use in different regions and countries. However, for general safety reasons horse riders helmets are recommended at all times when one is near or on a horse”.*

 The helmet itself has an outer layer of plastic, which resists impact and prevents injuries in case of a fall. However, some riding helmets are designed with a cloth covering the shiny plastic in order to make the helmet look more attractive. The brim of the helmet is designed to protect the eyes of the rider from the harsh glare of the sun. It also makes the helmet more attractive in terms of design. However, the brim is not made of the same materials as the ’shell’ of the helmet. Rather, it is designed to crumple during a fall. This makes the helmet safer in the event that a rider lands on the brim.

 The inside of the riding helmet is designed with both comfort and safety in mind. Added padding makes sure that the helmet takes the brunt of the impact in case of a fall. The design is also very sport-specific being one of the reasons why an equestrian helmet is easily recognisable.

 There are many variations on the equestrian helmet based on the competition. Horse racing jockeys, for instance, mostly wear helmets that are brimless and covered with a cloth matching the color scheme of their uniforms. Traditionalists in everyday riding are inclined to frown upon the spreading use of brilliant colored helmets, but more and more people find the colors black, brown and grey boring.

 There are also some varieties of equestrian helmets today that have been adapted to more “western” designs. These helmets, however, are yet to be embraced by riders in rodeos (where they are obviously more needed).

 Standardisation varies from country to country. However, a rider who joins a competition must have a standard riding helmet or that rider will not be allowed to compete. People who are qualified with the competition requirements and who have performed a “conformity assessment” judge whether the helmet being worn is up to standard.

 The conformity assessment is a series of tests that show how safe the helmet is. Some assessments involve various tests that simulate a rider falling from a horse and even getting kicked by a horse in the head.

Today, the equestrian helmet is not yet required for riders. However, their use is becoming common practice. In fact, riding instructors today are required by insurance companies to make their students wear riding helmets in order to get an insurance policy. Even although some people may feel that equestrian helmets are uncomfortable and hot, you should always remember that the real purpose of wearing a helmet is to help keep you safe.

* Modified from Wikipedia

Recommended reading:   Centered Riding (A Trafalgar Square Farm Book) by Sally Swift,

Related posts:

1. Selecting the Right Horse Riding Saddle is Vital: Tips on Selection and Fitting.
2. Safe Riding: Tips On Keeping You And Your Horse Safe
3. Equestrian Wear – Tips On The Use Of Horse Rugs, Boots, and Bandages.

Plan your horse first aid kit now!

While horse supplies run the gamut from grooming products to nutritional supplements there is an essential horse supply item that you shouldn’t be without while either exercising or riding your horse. You’ve probably guessed ~it’s  a horse first aid kit. Horse first aid kits are essential for all horse owners as they may be just the thing that could save a horse’s life.

Hollywood has often dramatised the situation where the rider shoots his horse because it is injured. Probably he hasn’t even thought about horse first aid kits and doesn’t have one with him. It’s pointless putting a horse down over a minor injury if it could be put out of its agony without pulling the trigger. And you’ll know from experience that no matter how well thought out or planned your riding outing might be, there are just some things that will simply go wrong. Accidents will happen! Always carrying horse first aid kits just makes sense, it’s not being paranoid, it is being prepared. Your preparation might help prevent your ride from turning into a Hollywood drama!

Ensure adequate storage for your horse first aid kit.

Your horse first aid kit should be stored in a container or bag that protects the kit from moisture and dirt as these will encourage the growth of bacteria. You’d just aggravate your horse’s infection if you used, for example, contaminated bandages. You’ll find that stores selling horse supplies will carry items such as a plastic zipper bag which would be a suitable container. Aside from carrying such items as tools, or grooming equipment, these are also good for storing and carrying your first aid items. Aside from keeping possible contaminants out, you could also choose a container that may well fit in your saddlebag.

Among the items that you should include in your horse first aid kit is a disinfectant as this is probably the most handy for most injuries to your horse. From minor scrapes and abrasions to wounds, disinfectants are essential cleansers. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions especially when using industrial grades as excessive use could dry your horse’s skin.

Prevention from bacteria.

Antiseptic scrubs and swabs become useful for disinfecting wounds in the absence of water. These are excellent substitutes for disinfectants as they clean wounds with the same efficiency, but without the need for water. Ointments or wound powders are also worthy additions to your horse first aid kit. These can prevent the entrance of new bacteria into the wound and speed up the healing process. However, be sure to use ointments, powders, and creams that have been approved by your vet.

A fly repellent applied or sprayed on the wound considerably lowers further infection or contamination risks. Wound dressings which come in sterile individual packs are good for covering wounds and promoting healing. Importantly, you should have a supply of bandages in your horse first aid kit, or at least two with a wide breadth. They are good for stabilising fractures, splints, and for securing pads over bleeding wounds. Speaking of bleeding, cotton wool and gauze are essential for preventing excess bleeding. And salts are good for soaking diseased hooves and feet

Further important items for your horse first aid kit.

Aside from these medications, there are some supplies which you can buy from equine stores and regular drug stores. Petroleum jellies are good for chafing, minor burns, and skin sores. A thermometer is a wise investment and should be added to your horse first aid kit.

Scissors, tweezers, and forceps are tools you shouldn’t forget adding to your horse first aid kit. Aside from being useful for cutting bandages, they are also perfect for removing splinters and stones that may be stuck in your horse’s hooves.

Lastly,  please remember that horse first aid kits are just for providing a horse help in emergencies before a vet arrives. These are just for preventive measures, meaning they can’t cure your horse. It is still important to always call a vet for assistance and treatment after applying any first aid.

Related posts:

1. Grooming Tips For Horses ~ A Major Part of Easy Horse Care.
2. Safe Riding: Tips On Keeping You And Your Horse Safe
3. Horse Care For Injuries And Wounds.

Which saddle would you choose?

Ensuring that you select the right horse riding saddle for your horse is vital. It not only affects the position in which you sit on your horse, and therefore can be beneficial in preventing back ache or muscle paid, but it also affects the horse. No responsible horse owner would want him to be in discomfort and pain and so choosing the best saddle is very important.

You can look for expert advice from a responsible horse tack shop or saddler who will measure your horse and recommend the saddles that they think are most appropriate, but as with most things worthwhile, this service costs money. However, I highly recommend this service as it ensures that you will not be causing any distress to your horse when you ride him.  Should you be dealing with a tack shop out of your locality, they should be able to tell you how to get the right measurements so that they can then advise you on an appropriate saddle.

Positioning the saddle.

Once you’ve purchased the correct saddle it’s important to remember that positioning  the saddle on your horse’s back is also vital in ensuring your horse is comfortable when ridden. There are three main muscles in the horse’s back which can be affected by the use of a badly positioned saddle. It’s also important to familiarise yourself with these and their locations before attempting to position the saddle on your horse. This will give you an idea of where the saddle needs to sit in order to be most comfortable for your horse. You can look for advice on these muscle positions from a vet used to working with horses.

In addition to the muscles which can be affected by the saddle, you must remember that the saddle is positioned on your horse’s back and so that this can have an effect on his spine and his vertebrae.  Remembering this should remind you of how important this lesson is and that you cannot afford to take risks with your horse if you want him to lead a long, painless and comfortable life.

Fitting the saddle.

To fit the saddle, firstly place the saddle on your horse’s back, forward of the wither. Once you’ve done this, slide it back along the back of your horse until it cannot comfortably go any further. This will vary dependent on the shape of the individual horse but the lowest point of the saddle should correspond to the lowest point of the horse’s back. If the saddle is in the correct position, the saddle tree will not be pressing on the scapula (the shoulder of the horse) but will rest in the natural grooves behind them. The most common mistake is to position the saddle too far forward and this then can cause the saddle to press on the muscles in the scapula causing pain, impeding movement and creating the possibility of saddle sores.

Once you’ve learned how to position the saddle you will find it comes naturally after a time and both he and you find it really takes very little effort. But it’s worth taking the time to learn to do it properly if you wish to remain the owner of a healthy, happy horse.

Recommended reading:  Horseback Riding For Dummies (Paperback)   ~ Audrey Pavia (Author), 

Related posts:

1. Safe Riding: Tips On Keeping You And Your Horse Safe
2. Horse Riding Helmets ~ Are They Really a Necessity?
3. A Modern Jumping saddle – the Pessoa AO.