I was motivated to write this Post about Wintec  after becoming aware of it’s evolution (and also being Australian,  just like me!). Apparently Ron and Ken Bates, owners of Bates Saddlery Australia on Perth, Western Australia are the designers behind the revolutionary Wintec saddles.

Wintec 500 All Purpose Saddle

I learned from further research that this first ever full cloth race saddle was given to a local jockey to test. He absolutely loved the saddle and would, in fact, take it into the shower with him after a race to wash the mud and sweat off it. In no time there were enough jockeys interested in the saddle to send it into full scale production.

The Wintec saddles took the global market by storm, especially in England where in 8 out of the next 10 years the famous English Derby was won by jockeys riding in Wintec saddles.

I’ll probably do Posts on other Wintec products at a later stage, such as the Wintec 500 and the Wintec dressage saddle, but for this Post I cover some of the features of  the …

Wintec 2000

Wintec 2000 All Purpose Saddle

The Wintec 2000, a strong contender in the synthetic all purpose family saddle field. Toward the top of the all purpose range, this great multi discipline saddle offers exceptional performance. It feature Flexibloc inset panels that form to your horse and you, the rider, working with the deep designed Equisuade saddle to promote a stronger riding position. The popularity of this saddle is understandable when you consider the Wintec 2000 offers the best of all worlds to riders.

With a formidable heritage, the Wintec 2000 takes some of the strongest features of the synthetic all purpose range. The range boasts a number of new attributes to ensure you get the most out of your saddle.

Features of note.

• Easy Change Gullet System – adapting to your horse or pony as it matures, the gullet can be changed to assure a marvellous fit.
• Equisuade Saddle – ensuring a excellent grip in the saddle even in wet weather.
• CAIR system – Greatly improving the comfort of you saddle, this system reduces friction points on your horse or pony. (The CAIR system is also available in the Wintec girth range which has also taken off in popularity).

Real Riders

The Wintec 2000 invariably scores high with real riders who cite quality and security as the key features of this saddle. The saddle is soft and comfortable unlike many leather saddles. The design of the seat gives an improved position enabling you to sit more properly with the fabric of the Equisuade adding to the feel.

Likes

• The Equisuade seat compared to basic end Equileather seats meaning you can essentially benefit from the improved grip provided by the fabric.
• With the gullet system meaning you don’t have to buy a new saddle as you switch horses means this saddle is a excellent investment. Very straight forward maintenance saves you cash and work.
• Just rinse off the saddle with warm water while your friends have to oil and treat their leather saddles.

Dislikes

• The grip provided by the saddle can take a bit of getting used to. A few riders have suggested the Equisuade holds some moisture for a period after rain.
• Change is distressing for some people and they see anything but leather as inferior. ( I’ll cover the features of synthetic saddles in a later Post).

There’s a lot to recommend the Wintec 2000 saddle and this will be appreciated most by multi discipline riders who are looking for function and value. As well as trusting your saddle, you need to be able to rely on your supplier. Wonderful guarantees and a ‘trial ride’ service make the organization at the link above a great recommendation. But as always, I strongly recommend that you check out all  suppliers available to you

Related posts:

1. Synthetic Saddles: What are the Benefits?
2. A Modern Jumping saddle – the Pessoa AO.
3. Saddles and tack: Tighten up the girth ~ or not?

The Pessoa AO Saddle. This, Pessoa’s principal jumping saddle is a classic and has already hit their their top seller mark. It’s ideal for a wide range of riders, amateurs and experienced riders alike both of whom who will appreciate the quality and comfort of this  jumping saddle. Plus it’s standard or lengthened flaps provide an element of individual choice when selecting the saddle and the square cantle, deep seat build ensures a secure ride position.

This saddle incorporates the best of the Pessoa collection. Years of development have gone into the technology harnessed in this saddle and the refinement is also shown in the calf skin leather:

• Adjustable Gullet: The saddle tree can be refined using the xChange gullet system. This allows you to suit the saddle correctly to your horse.
• BayFlex Panels: An innovative memory fabric that offers the best comfort for both you and your horse by adjusting and adapting to the applied pressure.

Innovations like these keep the Pessoa AO out in front of  competitors saddles.

Real Riders

The popular Pessoa AO Saddle, as real riders will quickly tell you, is built to endure. These saddles will last and last with only a little thought to maintenance. You may decide to replace your sadddle, but it certainly won’t be because you need to. Riders regularly buy into another recognised marque but the value they get from the brand both in terms of comfort and longevity frequently means they come back to Pessoa time and time again.

What you’ll like about this jumping saddle:

• The flexible leather and BayFlex panels break in remarkably quickly meaning there is a reduced chance of rubbing as you and your horse get adapted to the saddle. 
• Wider ponies and horses are well suited for this saddle. Although the gullet can be changed to fit narrower horses and ponies as well. 
• Supple and forgiving to the rider, you don’t sense like you miss any of the stability you look for.

A potential dislike:

• For some horses, the saddle could look to sit slightly high if the gullet is not the right match.

The above opinitons of real riders will hopefully be beneficial when you’re looking and trying to decide on the right jumping saddle for you.

If you want the best out of a saddle and want to mix both operation and appearance, the Pessoa AO Saddle is favorably recommended. The last step is to find the best retailer. One where you’ll find true horse lovers can be found by clicking above.  They have an excellent customer support team and are all riders. They provide quick shipping and a 100% satisfaction guarantee.  And they currently have a 10% deduction on the Pessoa ao saddle.  But, as always, it’s time well spent to shop around and compare.

Related posts:

1. Saddles and tack: Tighten up the girth ~ or not?
2. Wintec 2000 – Just One Of An Extensive Range of Saddles For All Riders!
3. Where To Look For Affordable Horse Tack!

More about horse bits (refer also to previous Posts).

The principle of the horse bit.

 Most horse bits follow the principle of either direct pressure or leverage pressure.  The Pelham bit, as does the Swiss Army Knife ,tries to fit all features into one. Basicially horse bits are split into two main categories. Snaffles are what are called direct pressure bits where the reins transmit the force directly to the mouth piece .

 Curbs bits are leverage bits where the force is multiplied so a stronger horse can in theory be controlled by the same forces used with a Snaffle. It is much better to avoid using the term “control” when discussing how best to ride your horse.

  Consider using the term “signaling” instead. . In other words the horse does what you want him to do happily because he recognises the signal, and your training together has formed a strong contract between the two of you. 

Considering the concept of signals therefore, sometimes one needs to switch to a stronger signaling mechanism for certain situations.  The vast majority of the time good snaffle use is sufficient to keep the horse in line but now and again the extra leverage of a Curb would just bring the horse back on track.

A common solution. 

A  solution to this is to fit a double bridal such as a weymouth and bradoon, where the weymouth provides the Curb mechanism and the bradoon is the Snaffle part.  Separate reins are attached to the two separate bits and are used independently.

However a issue can arise with fitting two separate bits into a horse’s mouth.  Is the horse’s mouth big enough ? .  Do not go down the road of sourcing these two bits with very narrow wire mouthpieces just to force the issue of getting this to work . This is potentially cruel. Don’t to it.  

The Pelham Bit can be the solution.

The solution to this issue if offered by the Pelham bit . It provides, in one unit, the features of a snaffle and a curb bit.  The familiar “99% of the time” signal of the snaffle can be achieved with one set of reins via the single mouth piece and the “1% of the time” stronger signalling achieved via the curb rein again via the single mouth piece.

All the features that you may look for in a snaffle and curb can be obtained in a pelham such as high port pelham, copper mouth pieces or longer cheek lengths.  If you are migrating from a Snaffle try going for one similar to the Snaffle you are already successfully using .  Consider also going for a rubber mouth if not already doing so as you’ll be introducing the horse to curbing . However don’t necessarily expect the Pelham to work identically to the equivalent double bridal as the Pelham is a slight compromise.

One final final point. 

 Apply a liberal amount of common sense when considering your need for something like the Pelham and the needs of the horse must be paramount according to its individual circumstances.  Be the best rider you can be first and don’t try and address lack of your own riding ability with a silver bullet horse bit!

A recommended supplier of tack:  Horse Saddle Shop

Related posts:

1. The Curb bit. What the horse rider needs to know.
2. Snaffle Bits ~ How Different Types Work.
3. The bit is the key to the horse.

These tips well help you to correctly bridle your  horse?

Irrespective of what you may call them: equestrian bridles, horse bridles, or just plain old ‘bridles’, bridling a horse is not as easy as it may seem. If you do something wrong, it may be do long term trauma to your horse. And you may may be affected or injured as well.

Before putting a bridle on a horse, you must be aware that there is an area in a horse’s mouth known as the “interdental space”. It is an area with no teeth found on the lower and upper jaws. The area is between the back teeth, which are the “molars” and the front teeth, called “incisors”. The bit rests on this interdental space when your horse is bridled correctly. Horse lovers also call this area of bare gums, particularly on the posterior jaw, bars.

The interdental space is also a spot where you or your horse trainer can insert a thumb when you want to ask your horse to open his mouth. An example of this is to ask your horse to accept the bit when the bridle is being put on.

Horse Bridling Tips

1. Tie up your equine in a comfortable place with a halter on. Do not have your horse tied without wiggle room in case he has a habit of pulling back when scared. Although your horse can be bridled without the halter on, it is still best to bridle him while his halter is in place until you completely understand your horse and his needs.

2. Stand on the near side of the your horse, which is normally the left side, when mounting the bridle.

3. You may make use of schooling aids to make bridling easier for you. A running martingale may be used to keep your horse from throwing his head upwards. Drop nosebands can also make it easy to keep your horse’s mouth shut. Ideally you won’t need this type of equipment as your horse develops trust in you.

4. Allow your horse to lower his head and make sure the bridle is untangled and ready to put on. Put your arm over your horse’s neck and hold the bridle loosely on the opposite side of thyour horse. Put the bridle on the lowest setting possible to make sure it can fit on your horse’s head easily.  You can adjust it once it’s on your horse.

5. Next, remove the halter from his face. Then replace it around his neck so your horse isn’t able to wandering off.

6. Be sure that you can reach the top of your horse’s head. If not, you can use a mounting block to make it easier.

7. With your right hand, grab the head stall. It is the piece fitting over your horse’s head. Then hold the bit with your finger and thumb so that it is stable. Introduce it to your horse’s mouth gently, placing a finger in the crack of his mouth to ask him to open it. A well trained horse should unthinkingly open his mouth. If you have a cue or command to get your horse to open his mouth, use it.

8. Gently slip the bit into his mouth. Never force it. When the bit is in place, slip the top part of the headstall over your horse’s ears.

9. The length of the face strap should be adjusted. Ideally, there is one small wrinkle at the corner of your horse’s mouth. Make sure his forelock is pulled out of the straps and none of the straps are tangled or broken.

10. Next would be the adjustment of the chin strap if your headstall has one. Keep this loose as it is a tool for pressure.

11. Your left hand should hold both reins while undoing the halter with your other hand. When walking with your horse, make him value your space. Never tie your horse with the leather headstall reins.

A FREE gift for you from our Guest Post writer.

If you thought this article was helpful you are invited to send for his FREE Horse Training DVD   It’s got many videos on how to bridle a horse horse training tips, techniques, and more of his training methods.

A recommended supplier of tack:  Horse Saddle Shop

Related posts:

1. Facts About Teeth Floating.
2. Equestrian Wear – Tips On The Use Of Horse Rugs, Boots, and Bandages.
3. Grooming Tips For Horses ~ A Major Part of Easy Horse Care.

Tips on buying affordable, quality horse tack.

You could possibly be a ’newbie’ rider or an individual doing your best to outfit a stable. Whatever the motive, you should be endeavoring to locate superior  horse tack at inexpensive prices. If you realize where to look, along with the manner in which to shop, you can wind up spending a lot less money to purchase the things that you need. All it takes is a bit of preparation, a little networking and the awareness of just what you want along with where to obtain it.

Horse care  can be somewhat expensive. Between grooming equipment and tack, fodder and added products you can finish up having to pay out a considerable amount of hard cash on a steady basis. The quandary is that if you are doing your best to get started, or are functioning on a budget, you may think that you are restricted in the selection of horse equipment you have got to choose from.

This needn’t be the case. You’ll regularly come across excellent deals on horsetack equally via the internet as well as at your neighborhood tack stores. Should you decide to search the internet , you can regularly hit upon many excellent supply stores that stock everything from grooming supplies to tack to riding clothing. If you are going to purchase by going online, you should study the online businesses you are thinking about buying from. You should take a look at the suppliers they represent and figure out if they manufacture high quality goods. If they do, you will feel more confident about purchasing things.

Consider networking.

If you can obtain price savings for obtaining a larger amount of products, this is where networking comes in. If you’re part of a riding stable, find out if other horse owners are in the market for ordering tack or other supplies at the same point in time as you might be. You may well have the opportunity to order many items and get a better price both on the per unit cost as well as on the shipping and handling expenses. You may perhaps be surprised at how inexpensive horse equipment may become when you consider purchasing it in this way.

Take the time to compare prices.

Consider that if you’re comparing cost between a shop and a web site, you should be sure that that you take shipping and handling and any minimum order charges into account. If viewed in this way, you may discover that opting for items from a tack shop can in point of fact be cheaper than buying on the internet. Or in may turn to be the reverse.

If you take the time to check around you will soon find a set of tried and true stores and websites that you are able to use to make all your purchases. A little research at first will save you lots of time and not inconsiderable amounts of money later.

A recommended supplier of tack:  Horse Saddle Shop

Related posts:

1. Saddles and tack: Tighten up the girth ~ or not?
2. A Modern Jumping saddle – the Pessoa AO.
3. Selecting the Right Horse Riding Saddle is Vital: Tips on Selection and Fitting.

  

 

The blanket and saddle comfortably fitted, so now the girth can be suitably tightened.

 

Fitting the girth.

As a rider, the last thing you want when out for a pleasant trail ride is having your horse’s saddle slide around your horse’s body, particularly when you mount or dismount. If the girth is not fitted correctly and is too loose, this can easily happen.  So just how tight should you make the girth when you’re tacking up for your ride?

Should you reef really hard on the girth to tighten the saddle down to the last notch so the saddle doesn’t slip? The answer to this is NO! Horses girthed too tightly will get cinchy and develop a dislike to beng saddled which is a problem you’ll find hard to cure. Instead, right from the start, do things correctly, like correctly positioning the saddle. If  you make the girth too tight, chances are that your horse will either reach around and bite you, blow or go down on its knees.  So, a good snug girth is what you should try to achieve,  and just about right in your horse’s book anyhow!

Position the saddle correctly and you shouldn’t have girth problems.

The saddle should rest solidly and be level on your horse’s back. But, having said that, there are many variations to horses’ backs, withers and rump. And also in the saddles themselves, and this sometimes becomes somewhat of a challenge. But assuming you can level the saddle on your horse’s back ~ it should be on you, the rider’s, centre of balance. This just behind your horse’s natural balance point at standstill. As your horse moves, engaging his hindquarters, his natural balance point (just behind and slightly above his elbow) moves back and under you as your horse rounds his back upwards. Now your horse and you should be in balance.

Now for the saddle, blanket and girth.

Next put your saddle pad or blanket over the withers and well forward. Place the saddle over the withers and forward. Slide the saddle and pad backward until they naturally settle into position, behind the withers and level on the back. You might think that the saddle position looks to be too far back. But it’s not. The gullet of the saddle will be somewhat over the withers. The saddle will be level and the back of the saddle won’t be pressing into your horse’s loin area. The girth will not be immediately behind the elbow, but several inches behind the elbow instead. If you were taught otherwise, forget it!  This is correct.

Here’s why it’s correct.

If the saddle is too far forward well over the withers, and the girth is directly behind the elbow, the movement of your horse’s shoulders is restricted. His stride and lateral action is adversely affected. Properly positioned, the saddle will not need to be tightly cinched, because it will stay in position naturally with only a snug cinching.

When the saddle is on board.

Check the pad or saddle blanket and lift it up into the gullet so that at least two fingers slide easily between the withers and the saddle. If you’ve properly positioned the saddle you won’t give your horse grief or discomfort on his withers or loins.  Then stand back and carefully observe your tacked horse from your ground level.  If there are any problems you’ll easily be able to spot them.

All being well you can now go out and enjoy your trail ride that you were so looking forward to!

Recommended reading:   Horses For Dummies  by Audrey Pavia

 

Related posts:

1. Where To Look For Affordable Horse Tack!
2. A Modern Jumping saddle – the Pessoa AO.
3. Wintec 2000 – Just One Of An Extensive Range of Saddles For All Riders!

Unlike their predecessors riding helmets of today serve a purpose beyond making people look good: they are worn for the primary purpose of safety. Although many people don’t stop to think about it, competitive horse riding is a sport that can be fraught with danger. This is the reason why helmets of today are designed and standardised to make sure that a rider does not suffer serious cranial injuries when riding.

 
“Riding or equestrian helmets have sport-specific differences from those used in other sports. For this reason, a helmet designed for another sport, such as bicycle riding helmets, are not deemed suitable for horse riding. The riding helmet covers more of a person’s head than does a bicycle riding helmet, fitting lower on the head, particularly at the back of the skull, and has protection distributed evenly around the head rather than being concentrated in the front and back. Aside from the safety features, aerodynamics are less important in a horse riding helmet than in a bicycle helmet. The appearance of horse riding helmets is frequently based on that of an English hunt cap. Additionally good ventilation and comfort are considered important features of a horse riding helmet”.*

 “Certified helmets are required headgear for a number of competitive riding events, particularly where horse and rider must work or jump at high speed. Helmets are worn more often by English-style riders and are gaining acceptance as required headgear for children. They are most widely accepted in activities such as eventing, show jumping, or horse racing. They are required in eventing, in endurance riding and other types of competitions. Riders who take their horses hacking or trail riding sometimes wear helmets, though there are tremendous variations in helmet use in different regions and countries. However, for general safety reasons horse riders helmets are recommended at all times when one is near or on a horse”.*

 The helmet itself has an outer layer of plastic, which resists impact and prevents injuries in case of a fall. However, some riding helmets are designed with a cloth covering the shiny plastic in order to make the helmet look more attractive. The brim of the helmet is designed to protect the eyes of the rider from the harsh glare of the sun. It also makes the helmet more attractive in terms of design. However, the brim is not made of the same materials as the ’shell’ of the helmet. Rather, it is designed to crumple during a fall. This makes the helmet safer in the event that a rider lands on the brim.

 The inside of the riding helmet is designed with both comfort and safety in mind. Added padding makes sure that the helmet takes the brunt of the impact in case of a fall. The design is also very sport-specific being one of the reasons why an equestrian helmet is easily recognisable.

 There are many variations on the equestrian helmet based on the competition. Horse racing jockeys, for instance, mostly wear helmets that are brimless and covered with a cloth matching the color scheme of their uniforms. Traditionalists in everyday riding are inclined to frown upon the spreading use of brilliant colored helmets, but more and more people find the colors black, brown and grey boring.

 There are also some varieties of equestrian helmets today that have been adapted to more “western” designs. These helmets, however, are yet to be embraced by riders in rodeos (where they are obviously more needed).

 Standardisation varies from country to country. However, a rider who joins a competition must have a standard riding helmet or that rider will not be allowed to compete. People who are qualified with the competition requirements and who have performed a “conformity assessment” judge whether the helmet being worn is up to standard.

 The conformity assessment is a series of tests that show how safe the helmet is. Some assessments involve various tests that simulate a rider falling from a horse and even getting kicked by a horse in the head.

Today, the equestrian helmet is not yet required for riders. However, their use is becoming common practice. In fact, riding instructors today are required by insurance companies to make their students wear riding helmets in order to get an insurance policy. Even although some people may feel that equestrian helmets are uncomfortable and hot, you should always remember that the real purpose of wearing a helmet is to help keep you safe.

* Modified from Wikipedia

Recommended reading:   Centered Riding (A Trafalgar Square Farm Book) by Sally Swift,

Related posts:

1. Selecting the Right Horse Riding Saddle is Vital: Tips on Selection and Fitting.
2. Safe Riding: Tips On Keeping You And Your Horse Safe
3. Equestrian Wear – Tips On The Use Of Horse Rugs, Boots, and Bandages.

Which saddle would you choose?

Ensuring that you select the right horse riding saddle for your horse is vital. It not only affects the position in which you sit on your horse, and therefore can be beneficial in preventing back ache or muscle paid, but it also affects the horse. No responsible horse owner would want him to be in discomfort and pain and so choosing the best saddle is very important.

You can look for expert advice from a responsible horse tack shop or saddler who will measure your horse and recommend the saddles that they think are most appropriate, but as with most things worthwhile, this service costs money. However, I highly recommend this service as it ensures that you will not be causing any distress to your horse when you ride him.  Should you be dealing with a tack shop out of your locality, they should be able to tell you how to get the right measurements so that they can then advise you on an appropriate saddle.

Positioning the saddle.

Once you’ve purchased the correct saddle it’s important to remember that positioning  the saddle on your horse’s back is also vital in ensuring your horse is comfortable when ridden. There are three main muscles in the horse’s back which can be affected by the use of a badly positioned saddle. It’s also important to familiarise yourself with these and their locations before attempting to position the saddle on your horse. This will give you an idea of where the saddle needs to sit in order to be most comfortable for your horse. You can look for advice on these muscle positions from a vet used to working with horses.

In addition to the muscles which can be affected by the saddle, you must remember that the saddle is positioned on your horse’s back and so that this can have an effect on his spine and his vertebrae.  Remembering this should remind you of how important this lesson is and that you cannot afford to take risks with your horse if you want him to lead a long, painless and comfortable life.

Fitting the saddle.

To fit the saddle, firstly place the saddle on your horse’s back, forward of the wither. Once you’ve done this, slide it back along the back of your horse until it cannot comfortably go any further. This will vary dependent on the shape of the individual horse but the lowest point of the saddle should correspond to the lowest point of the horse’s back. If the saddle is in the correct position, the saddle tree will not be pressing on the scapula (the shoulder of the horse) but will rest in the natural grooves behind them. The most common mistake is to position the saddle too far forward and this then can cause the saddle to press on the muscles in the scapula causing pain, impeding movement and creating the possibility of saddle sores.

Once you’ve learned how to position the saddle you will find it comes naturally after a time and both he and you find it really takes very little effort. But it’s worth taking the time to learn to do it properly if you wish to remain the owner of a healthy, happy horse.

Recommended reading:  Horseback Riding For Dummies (Paperback)   ~ Audrey Pavia (Author), 

Related posts:

1. Safe Riding: Tips On Keeping You And Your Horse Safe
2. Horse Riding Helmets ~ Are They Really a Necessity?
3. A Modern Jumping saddle – the Pessoa AO.